UKC

Latok I from the North Fri Night Vid

© Tom Livingstone

This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the Pakistan Karakoram. In 2018, a British-Slovenian team made up of Tom Livingstone, Aleš Česen and Luka Strazar made the first ascent of Latok I from the North, a route with a long history of unsuccessful expeditions from top mountaineers.

Initial misinterpreted reports relayed by sponsors were confusing, implying that an integral ascent of the elusive North Ridge had finally been completed after 40 years of numerous attempts by top calibre mountaineers. Details from the team later clarified that they opted for a safer line on the face in the last quarter, summitting via the West Col and making only the second ever ascent of Latok I and the first from the North. The climb took 7 days from Base Camp to Base Camp.

US alpinist Jeff Lowe - part of the first team to attempt the line in 1978 - described the north ridge of Latok 1 in the Alpinist essay 'Unclimbed' as 'the unfinished business of the last generation.'


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11 Apr, 2020

Love this video. The contrast in culture and demeanour between Tom and Ales & Luka but the unity in climbing style and abilities. Then the gradual deterioration of their speech betraying how far they're pushing themselves. Then is that Ales? on overhanging climbing way high up through the serac/cornice. Remember the hardest thing in a film like this is even getting the camera out when you're that far out. Well done to all involved

11 Apr, 2020

Really good. Made it all seem very real and immediate.

14 Apr, 2020

Hardcore.

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