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The North-East Pillar of TengkangpocheFri Night Vid

© Mountain Equipment

In October 2021, Tom Livingstone and Matt Glenn climbed a major new route on Tengkangpoche's (6487m) North-East pillar in Nepal, after spending a total of 7 days on the route.

The trip caused a subsequent controversy after it emerged Tom and Matt had used some stashed gear and beta from Quentin Roberts and Jesse Huey, which led to a debate around the ethics of high altitude mountaineering.

The new route pushed the pair greatly, with Tom commenting that it was a 'deeply testing experience, both mentally and physically.'


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Tom Livingstone is a climber and writer based in North Wales, UK.

He has a penchant for trad, winter and alpine climbing - the bigger and harder, the better.

Tom is an acclaimed outdoor writer, and you can...

Tom's Athlete Page 13 posts 3 videos



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