In this week's ticklist, we cover ascents from the boulders of Rocky Mountain National Park, quick multi-pitch ascents on massive limestone walls, to hard sport climbing by on-form Brits:
James Pearson climbs Condé de choc (9a)
James Pearson has climbed his second 9a with an ascent of Condé de choc in the Écrins National Park. The crag itself is called Entraygues and was first climbed by Toni Lamiche in 2006. It's been repeated by the likes of Adam Ondra, Gabri Moroni and Enzo Oddo.
Condé de choc is James' second 9a after climbing Escalamasters in 2012. This time around, James has been selecting crags based on their suitability for children, having recently become a father; Entraygues has a flat base and is a short walk from a stunning alpine meadow.
The route itself is bouldery in nature and can suffer from fickle conditions. Although once James had a breeze, he started to solve the beta. After his successful ascent, James was straight back down to earth, packing up, feeding Arthur and driving straight home.
Not Wednesday nights planned post, but a happy interruption because I just climbed 9a again! Not bad for a sleep-deprived Dad 😊 'Conde de choc', at Entraygues. Quite bouldery (2 boulder crux's, the first at 8A/+) and took 3 days. I'm not good at working routes for a lot of time (or, as Caro so succinctly puts it "a lazy bugger"), so it's nice to know there's still some gas in the tank. Photos from Caro (with Arthur in her arms), while a kind friend belayed. • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @wildcountry_official @oliunid
More Frankenjura ticks for Molly Thompson-Smith and Jan Hojer
We reported recently that the pair had been on a post-lockdown spree in the Frankenjura, but they haven't let up. Jan has redpointed Der heilge Gral - a short and fingery 9a first climbed by Markus Bock in 2005. Molly climbed yet another 8c with an ascent of Father and Son. Molly has put in some impressive mileage on in recent months, having been focused on competitions for much of her climbing career and it will be fantastic to see her push her limits in the future.
Read our previous report on Molly's Frankenjura trip:
Creature from the Black Lagoon - Font 8C+
Carlo Traversi has made the 7th ascent of Creature from the Black Lagoon, a Font 8C+ in Rocky Mountain National Park - his hardest problem to date. The American climber has been back on top bouldering for the past year, with ascents of problems like Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano.
For a few years prior to these ascents, Carlo was focusing more on hard trad climbing and made the coveted second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown (8c+ trad) in Yosemite.
Another Font 8B+ for Alex Puccio
Alex Puccio has ticked yet another Font 8B+ at Coal Creek Canyon, with an ascent of Paul Robinson's Reverse Logic. This was Puccio's eighth of the grade and she appears to be improving, climbing problems which wouldn't have always been her style. Straight after her ascent and after two hours of driving, Alex climbed Daytripper (Font 8B) at Upper Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park!
Earlier in the week, Alex also climbed The Wheel Direct (Font 8B/+), believing it to be a harder variation of The Wheel of Chaos (8B+) which she climbed in 2014.
Well this morning was a bit successful! 😁😄 . With 5 hours sleep, we got up "early", for us, to get the "better" conditions, 70-75 degrees-ish. 😂 Luckily all I needed was 2 tries to send. . ✅ Reverse Logic 8B+/ V14 (?) put up by @paulrobinson87 not so long ago. It ether suited me REALLY well or it's more of an 8B/ V13?! Time will tell. :) Some cool moves tho! . This was my second try from the start today and I tried it a couple days ago and almost did it that day. 🤷🏻♀️ . Thank you @robinoleary for getting out of bed "early" for me with only have 5 hours sleep! 🥰❤️ . @scarpana @organicclimbing @evn_cbd @frictionlabs
8b+ at Shipwreck Cove for Emma Twyford
Down on the Gower Peninsula at Shipwreck Cove, Emma Twyford ticked Helvetia - an 8b+ first climbed by Ben West. She looked at the moves on the route at the end of a trip, before returning for a weekend on the route. Despite less than ideal conditions, Emma managed the route on her 4th redpoint attempt over three days.
Helvetia (8b+) ✅ A couple of weekends ago I visited the Gower and immediately loved this place. At the end of that trip I had a quick run up Helvetia to look at the moves. Conditions this weekend were less than ideal with a bit of rain and humidity but that's part of the game. On Friday I worked a sequence in the rain and had one go greasing off the low crux. Saturday I had two more goes falling high making mistakes and being indecisive with my beta. On Sunday I tied in for my first go of the day (4th redpoint attempt), conditions were a little worse and I was tired but somehow knowing my mistakes from the previous day I had learnt my lessons and was able to fight my way to the top of this route. I opted for the direct version through the crimp sequence and avoiding air show. A little bit eliminate perhaps but the moves are ace! Nice one @simonrawlinson and @ben.west_ for creating such an awesome line! 👍 Thanks for another fab weekend @rock_science_ @pippatron5k and Bunney! Maybe less gin next time 😉 📸 @rock_science_ @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @patagonia @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @seatosummitgear @edelweiss_connection @climbskinspain @hard.bar @v12_outdoor @boardroomclimb
Siebe Vanhee Climbs Orbayu
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee ticked the stunning 8c/500m multi-pitch Orbayu on Naranjo De Bulnes in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain. The route was established by the Pou brothers in 2009 and has seen a handful of repeats since.
After working the route for 6 days, 4.5 of those trying the desperate crux pitch, Siebe was forced to take 4 days of rest, in order to allow his skin to recover. Then, on Saturday morning, Siebe set-off on his first attempt from the ground, managing to free-climb all of the hard pitches on his first try of the day.
Font 8B+'s for Micky Page
Micky Page, the darkest of horses, has climbed both Superman Sit (8B+) at Cressbrook and Dandelion Mind (8B/+) at Badger Cove. Both problems have had relatively few ascents but were no match for the seasoned Geordie, who has climbed at a top level around the world for over ten years now.