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The Ticklist #2 - Puccio on Fire, Pearson Climbs his 2nd 9a and More

© David ‘Campe’ Lopez @davidlopezcampe

In this week's ticklist, we cover ascents from the boulders of Rocky Mountain National Park, quick multi-pitch ascents on massive limestone walls, to hard sport climbing by on-form Brits:

James Pearson climbs Condé de choc (9a)

James Pearson has climbed his second 9a with an ascent of Condé de choc in the Écrins National Park. The crag itself is called Entraygues and was first climbed by Toni Lamiche in 2006. It's been repeated by the likes of Adam Ondra, Gabri Moroni and Enzo Oddo.

Condé de choc is James' second 9a after climbing Escalamasters in 2012. This time around, James has been selecting crags based on their suitability for children, having recently become a father; Entraygues has a flat base and is a short walk from a stunning alpine meadow.

The route itself is bouldery in nature and can suffer from fickle conditions. Although once James had a breeze, he started to solve the beta. After his successful ascent, James was straight back down to earth, packing up, feeding Arthur and driving straight home.

More Frankenjura ticks for Molly Thompson-Smith and Jan Hojer

We reported recently that the pair had been on a post-lockdown spree in the Frankenjura, but they haven't let up. Jan has redpointed Der heilge Gral - a short and fingery 9a first climbed by Markus Bock in 2005. Molly climbed yet another 8c with an ascent of Father and Son. Molly has put in some impressive mileage on in recent months, having been focused on competitions for much of her climbing career and it will be fantastic to see her push her limits in the future.

Read our previous report on Molly's Frankenjura trip:

Creature from the Black Lagoon - Font 8C+

Carlo Traversi has made the 7th ascent of Creature from the Black Lagoon, a Font 8C+ in Rocky Mountain National Park - his hardest problem to date. The American climber has been back on top bouldering for the past year, with ascents of problems like Dreamtime (8C) in Cresciano.

For a few years prior to these ascents, Carlo was focusing more on hard trad climbing and made the coveted second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown (8c+ trad) in Yosemite.

Another Font 8B+ for Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has ticked yet another Font 8B+ at Coal Creek Canyon, with an ascent of Paul Robinson's Reverse Logic. This was Puccio's eighth of the grade and she appears to be improving, climbing problems which wouldn't have always been her style. Straight after her ascent and after two hours of driving, Alex climbed Daytripper (Font 8B) at Upper Chaos Canyon in Rocky Mountain National Park!

Earlier in the week, Alex also climbed The Wheel Direct (Font 8B/+), believing it to be a harder variation of The Wheel of Chaos (8B+) which she climbed in 2014.

8b+ at Shipwreck Cove for Emma Twyford

Down on the Gower Peninsula at Shipwreck Cove, Emma Twyford ticked Helvetia - an 8b+ first climbed by Ben West. She looked at the moves on the route at the end of a trip, before returning for a weekend on the route. Despite less than ideal conditions, Emma managed the route on her 4th redpoint attempt over three days.

Helvetia (8b+) ✅ A couple of weekends ago I visited the Gower and immediately loved this place. At the end of that trip I had a quick run up Helvetia to look at the moves. Conditions this weekend were less than ideal with a bit of rain and humidity but that's part of the game. On Friday I worked a sequence in the rain and had one go greasing off the low crux. Saturday I had two more goes falling high making mistakes and being indecisive with my beta. On Sunday I tied in for my first go of the day (4th redpoint attempt), conditions were a little worse and I was tired but somehow knowing my mistakes from the previous day I had learnt my lessons and was able to fight my way to the top of this route. I opted for the direct version through the crimp sequence and avoiding air show. A little bit eliminate perhaps but the moves are ace! Nice one @simonrawlinson and @ben.west_ for creating such an awesome line! 👍 Thanks for another fab weekend @rock_science_ @pippatron5k and Bunney! Maybe less gin next time 😉 📸 @rock_science_ @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @patagonia @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @seatosummitgear @edelweiss_connection @climbskinspain @hard.bar @v12_outdoor @boardroomclimb

A post shared by Emma Twyford (@emmatwyford) on

Siebe Vanhee Climbs Orbayu

Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee ticked the stunning 8c/500m multi-pitch Orbayu on Naranjo De Bulnes in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain. The route was established by the Pou brothers in 2009 and has seen a handful of repeats since.

After working the route for 6 days, 4.5 of those trying the desperate crux pitch, Siebe was forced to take 4 days of rest, in order to allow his skin to recover. Then, on Saturday morning, Siebe set-off on his first attempt from the ground, managing to free-climb all of the hard pitches on his first try of the day.

Siebe's ascent was documented for a film that will be released later in the year  ©  David ‘Campe’ Lopez @davidlopezcampe
Siebe's ascent was documented for a film that will be released later in the year
© David ‘Campe’ Lopez @davidlopezcampe

Font 8B+'s for Micky Page

Micky Page, the darkest of horses, has climbed both Superman Sit (8B+) at Cressbrook and Dandelion Mind (8B/+) at Badger Cove. Both problems have had relatively few ascents but were no match for the seasoned Geordie, who has climbed at a top level around the world for over ten years now.

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Emma is one of the very best climbers operating in the current British scene. She has flashed both E7 and F8a, headpointed E9 and is the first British woman to redpoint F9a.

Emma's Athlete Page 37 posts 3 videos

Alex is one of the most successful climbers of her generation. In total, she has climbed 31 Font 8Bs or harder. She has been climbing at a high level since 2006 when she climbed her first Font 8A and has made steady...

Alex's Athlete Page 32 posts 3 videos

Cologne-born all-rounder Jan Hojer started competing from the age of 10 and was considered a strong contender for the Olympics as soon as the triple discipline format was announced. His background in youth Lead and...

Jan's Athlete Page 28 posts 2 videos

James has gone from climbing near his family home in the Peak District of England to exploring walls and mountains in exotic locations around the globe everywhere from Tazmania to Thailand. His first venture into rock...

James's Athlete Page 19 posts 3 videos

Molly is a member of the GB Climbing Team, holding multiple British Championship titles. In 2017, Molly won bronze in a Lead World Cup and earned a top 10 World Ranking. She is currently working towards...

Molly's Athlete Page 15 posts

Carlo's Athlete Page 5 posts 1 video

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31 Jul

I love this round up feature, well done UKC

These updates of hard ascents are a great idea. However, I would like to see a bit more on trad and alpine...maybe it’s just the wrong time of year or maybe no one does hard trad anymore. I did notice elsewhere that Mick Lovatt and Nick Bullock have done a lot of hard trad ascents at Craig Doris recently, is that worth a mention?
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