This week's round-up has a distinctly alpine feel, with ascents on some of Europe's longest, highest and hardest lines, with some sport and bouldering thrown in for good measure.
Nico Favresse and Sébastien Berthe complete the Alpine Trilogy
The pair have been cycling around Europe with their dogs, attempting to complete the infamous Alpine Trilogy which consists of Silbergeier in the Rätikon, Des Kaisers neue Kleider in Austria's Wilder Kaiser and End of Silence on the Feuerhorn in Germany.
Oh yeah, @nicofavresse and I completed the famous alpine trilogy in a clean way #0co2emissions with a single day ascent of "End of silence" in Berchtesgaden ✅🍻🍻such a dream for me!!! 3 routes established by 3 of the most iconic climbers of all time, trilogy was born in 1994 when @thomas_huberbuam opened End of silence! With Silbergeier from @kammerlander_beat and kaizer neue kleider from @glowaczstefan, the trilogy is the milestone of hard mutlipitch climbing and had always been a dream of mine... thanks for putting our nerves, endurance and skin to the test with such magnificent routes 🙏 once again our day on the wall was an epic one as we really had to fight hard with a destroyed skin 😅really happy with my climbing though, I could flash or on sight all the pitches but the 2 crux pitches where I had to give few goes 😊 The secret of this trip: the mood in the team and the support we give to each other which really push us forward! 15 days and 400km on our bikes with @damienlargeron, kroux, Bintje and Nico, I could not have dreamt about such good partners for this adventure! It is crazy to notice how cool it is to bike to the climb, it really adds an extra taste! I guess it was not my last biking climbing experience 🚴🏻. 📷@damienlargeron @patagoniaeurope @scarpa_de @petzl_official @lecomte.alpirando @revolutionclimbingteam @escalpades
The final route on their mission was the Huber Brother's End of Silence, which they managed to climb in a single day. The entire Alpine Trilogy (and the route Headless Children) took the pair just two weeks. Speaking of his Sébastien, Nico said: 'I have to say that climbing with @sebertheclimber has been very inspiring for me. His ethics are strict, his unshakable motivation is very contagious as well as his unique clothing style! I couldn't have hoped for a better partner to save some CO2 and to push myself to the limit!'
✅ Yesterday we completed the #alpinetrilogy with the last missing climb.... "End of Silence" in our pocket! 🍻I can't believe it, @sebertheclimber and I made it in only 2 weeks each climb sent by both of us in a single day and linked by bike with our doggies and with the route "Headless children" sent as a bonus ! I have to say that climbing with @sebertheclimber has been very inspiring for me. His ethics are stricts, his unshakable motivation is very contagious as well as his unique clothing style! I couldn't have hoped for a better partner to save some CO2 and to push myself to the limit! Each route of the trilogy have amazing quality and provide a cocktail of very demanding pitches! Thanks to 🙏@kammerlander_beat , @glowaczstefan and @thomas_huberbuam for showing us the way by opening back in the 90's these cutting edge masterpieces of climbing! To capture all our adventures with images, @damienlargeron joined us on his bike too, with his camera and a static rope ! Stay tuned for the film 🎥! #zeroco2 #noplacetoofar @patagonia @patagoniaeurope @patagonia_climb @scarpaspa @petzl_official @arkose.climbing @julbo_eyewear @lyofood @hard.bar @samaya_equipment @agripp_climbingholds
Stefano Ghisolfi ticks the first pitch of Change (9a+)
The 27-year-old Italian is a step close to Adam Ondra's 55m 9b+ with his ascent of the first pitch. To climb the full route, he needs to add a 9a extension which has several tricky cruxes, all after the initial 9a+. Watch this space...
I know it is just the half of the dream, but it is an important goal anyway, the first anchor of Change (Change P1 9a+/b) is done ✅ 😀😀😀 • Now I just have to climb it again, and add the second and very long part (still a 9a after the first anchor) to achieve the Full Change, but it seems now more possible than ever! • •📸@sara_grip • @thenorthface @lasportivagram #foryourmountain @camp1889 @epictv @hrtholds @misuraweb @visittrentino #neverstopexploring @fiammeoromoena #fiammeoromoena @gardatrentino @italiateam @italiaclimbing @frictionlabs • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram
Katie Lamb continues bouldering spree
The 22-year-old American has climbed Freshly Squeezed (Font 8A+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. In the past two months, Katie has climbed five 8B's including, The Wheel of Chaos, Freaks of the Industry, Don't Get Too Greedy, Nuthin' but Sunshine and The Wheel Direct.
Speaking to 8a.nu, Katie described Freshly Squeezed in a rather abstract manner: 'The boulder is so good it has reduced grown men to tears and is protected by an osprey overlord who flies over the nearby Lake Haiyaha and swoops for trout as climbers give good goes in the nearby talus. Although the grade doesn't reflect the full difficulty of the climb, I have taken away deep learning lessons of both climbing and human empathy from the ascension experience.'
Drew Ruana on Creature from the Black Lagoon
We recently reported that Drew Ruana had climbed Daniel Woods' Creature from the Black Lagoon (Font 8C+) in Rocky Mountain National Park. The uncut footage of his ascent has been released and can be seen below.
This was Ruana's 3rd 8C+ this year after his ascents of Sleepwalker and Box Therapy.
A Mellow Switzerland
Mellow have released the first video of a four-part series covering Daniel Woods, Jimmy Webbs, Giuliano Cameroni, Keenan Takahashi and Roman Yalowitz in Ticino. The team spent last winter developing Val Bavona and in this first episode we see several first ascents, including:
- Grandissimo 7C+
- No Picnics 7C+
- Il Pagliaccio 8A
- La Peregrina 8A+ (FA by Jonas Winter)
- Squalo Bianco 8B+
- Space Cadet 8B
Repeat of Matteo Pasquetto's Grandes Jorasses line by Mingolla and Gheza
Italian duo Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero (7b+/c max, 7a oblig. 350 metres), The Young Warrior, a line established only recently on the east face of the Grandes Jorasses by Matteo Pasquetto, Matteo Della Bordella and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Pasquetto, an aspirant mountain guide and accomplished alpinist who passed away on 7 August at the age of 25 on the descent from the line. It's been a testing few months for the Italian mountaineering community, following the death of Pasquetto's close friend and climbing partner and highly respected alpinist Matteo Bernasconi in May.
Earlier this summer, Mingolla and Gheza also repeated the 1991 line Manitua on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses, and Incroyable (8a max) on Mont Blanc's Pilier Rouge du Brouillard
Ciao Amico, Ieri ti abbiamo pensato tanto. Essere i primi a inseguire le vostre tracce di magnesite sulla Est delle Jorasses è stato emozionante. Ricordarti lì tra le pareti che più amavi lo è stato ancora di più. Un grazie di cuore a @leogheza che ancora una volta mi ha dimostrato di essere un ottimo compagno e a @matteodellabordella e @lucalukemoroni per la via 👏 Capolavoro! Grazie anche a te amico mio che ci sei stato accanto tutto il tempo @matteo_pasquetto . . . 📸 prima ripetizione in libera della via " Il giovane guerriero", in onore di Matteo Pasquetto ❤️ , Est delle Jorasses . . Dear my friend, Yesterday we tought a lot about you. Being the first ones to follow your chalk signs on the Est wall of Grandes Jorasses was really emotional. Reminding you there, climbing and smiling on your favourite mountains was even more so. Thanks to @leogheza for being another time a really good partner and to @matteodellabordella @lucalukemoroni for the new ruote, It's such a beautiful Line! Thanks also to you, my friend, who has always being there with us during our ascension 🙏 . . 📸 First free repetition of the new ruote on the Est of Grandes Jorasses "Il giovane guerriero ", in memory of @matteo_pasquetto ❤️ . . @lasportivagram @sherpamountainshop @dinamicheverticalisrl @evileye.eyewear @airnoutdoor . . #lasportiva #laspogirl #womeninspiringwomen #foryourmountain #wearemountaineers #outdoor #rockclimbing #grandesjorasses #firstrepetition #giovaneguerriero
All go on the Eiger - Merci la vie and Paciencia repeats
Shortly after Nina Caprez (SUI) and Roger Schaeli (SUI) made the first free ascent of their Eiger North Face line 'Merci la Vie' (8a, 300m, UKC News) - and in a day at that - Swiss IFSC Lead World Cup winner Sascha Lehmann made the second free ascent of the route alongside Tobias Suter.
Yesterday I had a great day with @sutertobias at the Eiger where I climbed the new route „Merci la vie" 8a (pitches 1 (6b), 3 (8a) and 8 (4+) I did in toprope, the rest I climbed in the lead). Thanks Tobi for taking me to the Eiger, your support and good company! Good job by @ninacaprez @rogerschaeli and @seanvillanuevaodriscoll bolting this great line and making the first ascents! • • @mammut_swiss1862 @lasportivagram @obloc.ch @schweizeralpenclub #trainatobloc #climbing #klettern #swissclimbingteam #saccas #eiger #eigernorthface #multipitch #mercilavie
At the same time over on the Rote Fluh, Symon Welfringer (FRA) and Nils Favre (FRA-SUI) got stuck into Ueli Steck's Eiger North face classic Paciencia 8a (900m). The pair managed to tick the 23-pitch line in two days.