Loading Notifications...

Alex Megos climbs 9c project at Ceuse Newsflash

© Patagonia

Alex Megos has climbed his long-term project at Ceuse after reportedly spending 60 days on the route. The line, called 'Bibliographie', tackles the steep ground to the right of Biographie's blue streak and there is speculation that it is in the 9b+/9c grade range.

Update: Megos has confirmed the grade at 9c.

Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it definitely wasn't looking good after messing up the first (and only) try I wanted to do that day. I fell relatively low on the route though, so I decided to give it an infamous "one last go". I passed the crux in the middle of the route, and found myself on the poor rest before the final hard section. Twice prior to this burn I had fallen on the last hard move of the route, so I wasn't feeling super confident. Nonetheless I started off after the rest with full pace and only briefly slowed down to adjust one hold and to get it perfectly. I passed my 'trouble move' seemingly effortlessly and despite being completely pumped out of my mind, I was able to pull off the sequence of the last four moves. After clipping the anchor it seemed like all of the days of work I have put into the route were passing in front of my eyes. With approximately 60 climbing days over the past three years "Bibliographie" has been by far my longest project to date. I know there are many speculations about the grade and I think grades are very subjective. My personal suggestion for the grade is 9c (5.15d). Considering the fact, that "Perfecto Mundo" (9b+) has taken me 16 days of effort, "Bibliographie" with around 60 days and more specific training felt a lot harder. Of course, as the first ascensionist you don't have your perfect beta from the start, you have doubts whether it is possible or not for you, if you are completely missing something, or if you are just not in the best shape. It is always harder to grade something without any other opinion. I am very curious about what the future of the route will look like, and grateful for other people's opinions. Independently from the grade, this has been a very valuable experience for me. It marks a personal milestone in my climbing life, one I would have not been able to complete without the support and help of all of my friends and family. Deep gratitude and thanks goes to all of you! (And yes, there is send footage 😉) Pic @ken_etzel

A post shared by Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) on

Alex amongst the stunning blue streaks of Ceuse whilst working Bibliographie  © Patagonia
Alex amongst the stunning blue streaks of Ceuse whilst working Bibliographie
© Patagonia

This is Alex's first 9c and only the second of the grade in the world – the first being Adam Ondra's Silence in Flatanger, Norway. The project is known as Bibliography and starts up an 8c to a good rest, followed by a Font 8B boulder problem and finishing with a 9a+ route.

The route finishes with a 9a+  © Patagonia
The route finishes with a 9a+
© Patagonia

Alex's previous hardest was his first ascent of Perfecto Mundo, a 9b+ project at Margalef bolted by Chris Sharma. He was the third person to climb the grade, after Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma. Alex also has good form at Ceuse – in 2014, he needed only four attempts to climb Chris Sharma's Biographie (9a+)

Ethan Pringle bolted the 35m route in 2011 and footage of Alex attempting the project can be seen at the being of Rotpunkt below:

More info to follow.

This post has been read 18,365 times

Return to Latest News

Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 73 posts 3 videos

Support UKC

We need your help.

UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love.

You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to the Rockfax App.
  • 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts

If anybody other than Ondra can, he can...

6 Aug

True. But others are catching up. Which is how it should be.

Andy F

Be interesting to see how Ondra fairs on this when he goes and tries it. (Whenever that will be)

looks like an amazing route. To me it looks better/more appealing than Silence

6 Aug

Might be “new” to Ondra to repeat a cutting edge route, as since 5+ years he has always provided them, take away perfecto mundo. Obviously he has done that in the past but it’s been a while...

7 Aug

Wow! I hope it really is 9c. Can't wait to see the footage.

More Comments
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest