While there's been plenty of top-end British ascents this past week, it's a been a quieter week for interesting ascents abroad. Here's a round-up of some recent sport and multi-pitch action...
Sang Neuf 9a by Julia Chanourdie
Olympic-qualified French climber Julia Chanourdie has ticked Sang Neuf at Pierrot Beach in the Vercors, France. This is the second female ascent of the line after Anak Verhoeven's redpoint in 2017. Julia is reportedly working on the extension, Sweet Neuf 9a+, which was first climbed by Anak in 2017.
Vidéo de l'enchaînement de Sang Neuf ! 😁 Sang Neuf video ! 😁 @sportsdefense #armeedechampions @michelin #teammichelin @ca_des_savoie #team_cads @petzl_official #petzl @climb_up_officiel #climbup @fanucfrance #fanuc @lasportivagram #lasportiva #climbing #rockclimbing #climbingvideo #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_lovers
9a FA by Tom Bolger in Margalef
British expat living in Catalonia, Tom Bolger, has made the first ascent of a link-up on Margalef's Raco de la Finestra wall, joining the first half of Perfecto Mundo 9b and Victimes del Passat 8c, creating Perfecto Passat R2 9a. According to Tom, the line takes in 'some of the best climbing to be had in Margalef.'
Perfecto Passat R2 9a ✅ It's a link up but it's class, another gem on the finestras wall, this route climbs the first half of perfecto mundo and then swoops into víctimas del Passat all the way to the top taking in some of the best climbing to be had in Margalef!! It's been great trying hard on this route with a motivated crew, perfect days here in Finestres Margalef, psyched for more and to try hard on the main proj Gancho perfecto ! Awesome shot by @esteban.ele.eme (thanks dude 🙏) @gabiliii @betoboulder @sara.richart @esteban.ele.eme @adriapetanas @lookingforwildofficial @climbingtechnology @tenayaclimbing @beta_climbing #climbing #projects #9a
8c multipitch by the Pou Brothers in the Picos
Basque brothers Eneko and Iker Pou and Argentine climber Kico Cerdá have made the first free ascent of Rayu 8c (5.14b)/ 600m (1968,5ft) on the south face of the Peña Santa de Castilla in the Picos de Europa, which neighbours their old haunt and the site of their famous multipitch route Orbayu 8c, the Naranjo de Bulnes. The trio redpointed the whole route in a 12.5 hour non-stop attempt from the ground to the summit. The route's name means 'lightning' in local dialect and refers to a natural white streak which zigzags down the face.
@thenorthface "RAYU"8c/600m En está imagen se puede ver uno de los movimientos más curiosos y fanáticos del largo duro. El largo está compuesto por tres secciones bastante a bloque,siendo el último bloque el más complicado y técnico. Está última sección es la que nos hizo sudar de lo lindo 😅😅😅. "RAYU" 8c / 600m In this image you can see one of the most curious and fanatical movements of the hard pitch. The pitch is made up of three sections quite block, being the last block the most complicated and technical. This last section is the one that made us sweat a lot 😅😅😅. #Neverstopexploring #thenorthface #petzlteam #accestheinaccesible #poubros #pouanaiak #hermanospou #picosdeeuropa #peñasanta @petzl_official @lasportivagram @olyan_farma @kleankanteen @totemmt
First Free ascent of Ellipsis by Jernej Kruder
Slovenian overall Boulder World Cup winner Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of his line Ellipsis 8b+ on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy. The five-pitch line is a hybrid of trad and sport, with some bolts and pitons in key places. Jernej established the route in 2018 alongside Gašper Pintar and David Debeljak.
Ellipsis, 8b+ (7b+,7a+,8a,8b+,7c) FA 🤯 Story begins back in 2018 when I teamed up with strong and visionary guys @pinticlimbs and @slod4ve . They saw a nice looking line in a steep 200 meters wall of Bila pec. They didn't know how difficult and challenging it can be, but they were sure it's not going to be save or possible without bolts. They took the alpine gear and I took the bolts and drilling tool for 3 days of work. We spent 26 (+2 additional ones) bolts including anchors and some pitons. Route seemed very challenging and I needed 2 years to find courage to come back. After 3 days of work, I came back with @urhprimozic on very good, dry conditions. First 3 pithes (7b+, 7a+ and 8a) went down pretty easy, but still I wasn't sure about 4th, hardest pitch. I gave it a go and I failed. I failed because on previous tries I was mentally and physically too tired to figure out the moves properly. This time I found perfect beta and sent it second go 😁. I still had time to finish the last 7c pitch on which I was also missing a move. I must say, I fought the most in this one, but got lucky enough I didn't fall. This was my longest big wall project, and I'm very proud I can call it a first ascent 😁. @pinticlimbs @slod4ve @urhprimozic @sonilmose thanks again for this beautiful story!!! 📸: @markgrmek 👌🏻💥 ______________________ @scarpaspa @ocun.climbing @vibram @snowmonkey
Scottish Trad FAs and Repeats by Robbie Phillips and Dave MacLeod
Robbie Phillips recently established Nosferatu E8 6c at Loch Duntelchaig, which Dave MacLeod repeated this week. The line climbs a steep overhanging face before finishing up an arête.
Dave Macleod made the 2nd Ascent of my trad line "Nosferatu" (E8 6c) 🧗♂️ ⠀ Doing First Ascents (especially in Scotland 🏴) is a hard, dirty and emotional process, which is why it makes it even more special when someone comes along and climbs your route 😁 ⠀ Dave (@climbermacleod) has made an awesome wee video of him climbing "Nosferatu" as well as highlighting some of the personal challenges he faced. What was interesting for me was how different we both found the route... ⠀ The bit I found tricky he seemed to breeze, whilst the bit he found hard wasn't as tough for me. Certainly there is morphological parts in play here - im much taller than Dave so could more easily reach in the first crux, but I found the traverse right trickier as i was probably more bunched up and the kneebar was harder to place. ⠀ But that's what's great about climbing - on the same bit of rock we can have our own unique experience and challenge from it. On a personal note, I'm really happy that Dave enjoyed the climb and thought it looked good enough to go and give it a shot, and im glad it provided a little bit of a challenge between working his bigger personal projects in Scotland 🏴 ⠀ If you haven't already, head over to Dave's YouTube channel and give the video a watch "Repeating Robbie's E8" ☺️📺 ⠀ 📸: Screenshot from Dave's video ⠀ #davemacleod #scotland #climbinginscotland #scottishclimbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #tradclimbing4life #tradclimbingisradclimbing #rockclimbing #rockclimber #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinglife #climbingtrip #duntelchaig #invernessscotland #scotlandhighlands #scotlandexplore #scotlandmountains #cragging #explorescotland #visitscotland #firstascent #firstascentclimbing #climbingworldwide #climbing_videos_of_instagram