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Chupacabra E8/9 6c by Emma Twyford

© Ray Wood

Emma Twyford returned to Pembroke last weekend and ticked Chupacabra E8/9 6c at  Huntsman's Leap. The line was first climbed by Ben Bransby and Neil Gresham in 1998 and follows the bold wall above Witch Hunt E4 6b.

Emma Twyford on Chupacabra E8/9 6c.  © Ray Wood
Emma Twyford on Chupacabra E8/9 6c.
© Ray Wood

After climbing Do You Know Where Your Children Are E8 6c in August, Emma turned her attention to Chupacabra the weekend before last, slipping off the last few hard moves just two metres from the top. She told UKC:

'If you're short, you end up on some insecure moves with bad handholds and smeary footholds and my foot slipped messing up my sequence of smears.'

Returning on Saturday, Emma was keenly aware that it would be one of her last few chances to try the line with work kicking back in and the range being shut on weekdays. Chupacabra also proved popular, with three other climbers trying it on the day. Emma told UKC:

'I tied in nervously for the first try knowing I'd got high the week before. The first part on Witch Hunt went smoothly, but as I left the cam placement to start the run-out my foot slipped. I managed to stay on but it threw me off kilter. I got through the run-out but was much less smooth than the previous weekend.'

Climbing to her highpoint only took Emma six minutes, but she then spent twelve minutes shaking out before the last bit while trying to clean her shoes and brush the smeary footholds. Emma explained:

'I was nervous to commit and leave the security of good holds in case I blew it again. I had to switch into pretending I was on top rope so that it didn't matter. Weirdly the last few hard moves felt the easiest part of the route this time. Nice to finish off another classic Pembroke route!'

The line was also climbed by Tony Stone on the following day.

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Emma is one of the very best climbers operating in the current British scene. She has flashed both E7 and F8a, headpointed E9 and is the first British woman to redpoint F9a.

Emma's Athlete Page 37 posts 3 videos

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I was down there while this was going on and saw a lot of activity from Emma and others in the Leap. Nice too find out what it was all about. Excellent work!

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