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Second Ascent of Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi Newsflash

© Sara Grippo/@sara_grip

Italian climber Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Adam Ondra's 2012 route Change 9b+ in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway after spending one month over two trips attempting the line.

Stefano required more than one hour to complete 185 moves over a length of 55 metres. In August, he ticked the first pitch of Change (Change P1) 9a+/b. The "full" Change consists of a second 9a 'pitch' on top of the first part and was the world's first of the grade.

Change 9b+ ✅ The battle is over, unexpectedly soon, a mental and physical fight that took me more than one month and two trips to Flatanger, it ended today with a bloodbath lasted more than one hour of climbing to complete the 185 moves and 55m of Change, the very first 9b+ in the world, bolted and climbed only by @adam.ondra in 2012. I feel relieved, tired and happy, and I enjoyed everything it came with this amazing (and frustrating) journey. Thanks to Sara as always, all the people who took part in this process, and all the people who cheered me up today during the endless climb. • •📸@sara_grip • @thenorthface @lasportivagram #foryourmountain @camp1889 @epictv @hrtholds @misuraweb @visittrentino #neverstopexploring @fiammeoromoena #fiammeoromoena @gardatrentino @italiateam @italiaclimbing @frictionlabs • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

A post shared by Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) on

Stefano recently released uncut footage of Change P1 9a+/b:

This is Stefano's second 9b+ after his ascent of Perfecto Mundo in Margalef in December 2018 (UKC News). He's also a five-time World Cup gold medal winner.


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That works out at a speed of 1 metre a minute.

"more than an hour of climbing" and 55m?

29 Sep

Average speed. Presumably most of the time was spent shaking out (sped up in the video).

29 Sep

Very poor style from a quarantine point of view though. He was in Italy only last week, so he should have been in home quarantine for ten days after arrival.

https://www.fhi.no/nettpub/coronavirus/fakta/reiserad-knyttet-til-nytt-koronavirus-coronavirus/

Flatanger is nine hours from Oslo airport as well, so there a good chance he took an internal flight to Trondheim.

29 Sep

Checked the situation via Instagram. The Italian comp was actually back on 1st September, and he's been in Norway since 15th September. He actually waited to announce his arrival for the reason of quarantine, so it sounds like he's done things right. The Insta feed order just made it look otherwise.

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