UKC

Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Perfecto Mundo 9b+

Stefano Ghisolfi on Perfecto Mundo 9b+, 175 kb
Stefano Ghisolfi on Perfecto Mundo 9b+
© Javi Pec
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) at Margalef . He spent 32 days trying the route and falling repeatedly on one move. This makes Ghisolfi the 4th person to climb the grade of 9b+ after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos.

The route was bolted by Chris Sharma who worked the route on and off for a few years before attempting it with Alex Megos. Ghisolfi belayed Megos on the first ascent in May 2018.

After his ascent, Ghisolfi said: 'After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow.

'I can finally join the 9b+ club of Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos. Without them, it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful (and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realise it was possible.'

Ghisolfi has climbed four 9b's in total; La Capella in Siurana, One Slap in Arco, First Round, First Minute at Margalef and Lapsus at Andonno. He is no slouch at competitions either having won five lead World Cups.

PERFECTO MUNDO 9B+ ☑️ MISSION COMPLETED !!! • • • After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow. I can finally join the 9b+ club of @adam.ondra @chris_sharma and @alexandermegos , without them it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful ( and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realize it was possible, And obviously thanks to @sara_grip , the best supporter ever, in every conditions she was here with me. 📸@javipec • • • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @camp1889 @vertical.life.climbing @epictv @hrtholds @frictionlabs #neverstopexploring #fiammeoro • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

A post shared by Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) on

Here's a video of Alex Megos attempting the route a few days before his first ascent:

Stefano is sponsored by: Cassin, Friction Labs, HRT, La Sportiva and The North Face



Forums 26 comments

Well to get back on track there's now a good interview with Stefano about his ascent and the route on Planet Mountain: ...
Sure, but in this case the poster had a point, stating that he was genuinely surprised that others appeared so "bored" by the fourth climber breaking the 9b+ barrier that they would rather post about the languages used...
When people complain that a thread has been "derailed", what they almost invariably mean is that some posts have not gone in a direction they don't happen to be particularly personally interested in. It doesn't mean...
Thanks for the reply. BTW it was Ondra who did the first 9b+, firstly with Change in Norway then secondly La Dura Dura in Spain. Great vid of the latter on Youtube. Whilst I agree with you that you can't tell how hard...
Totally agree, and I had not thought of training boards offering a direct comparison, good point! Along a similar vein, there is a well known training video of Jan Hojer doing 1-6-11s and 1-9s on a campus board,...
What I found really put thier super abilities into some kind of perspective is watching a video of Megos do about 10 pull ups off the 45 degree slopers on a beast maker, and another of him doing perfect front leavers of...

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