UKC

Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Perfecto Mundo 9b+

© Javi Pec

Stefano Ghisolfi on Perfecto Mundo 9b+  © Javi Pec
Stefano Ghisolfi on Perfecto Mundo 9b+
© Javi Pec
Stefano Ghisolfi has made the second ascent of Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) (9b+) at Margalef - Zona del Panta North . He spent 32 days trying the route and falling repeatedly on one move. This makes Ghisolfi the 4th person to climb the grade of 9b+ after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos.

The route was bolted by Chris Sharma who worked the route on and off for a few years before attempting it with Alex Megos. Ghisolfi belayed Megos on the first ascent in May 2018.

After his ascent, Ghisolfi said: 'After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow.

'I can finally join the 9b+ club of Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma and Alex Megos. Without them, it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful (and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realise it was possible.'

Ghisolfi has climbed four 9b's in total; La Capella in Siurana, One Slap in Arco, First Round, First Minute at Margalef and Lapsus at Andonno. He is no slouch at competitions either having won five lead World Cups.

PERFECTO MUNDO 9B+ ☑️ MISSION COMPLETED !!! • • • After so many days trying this route, I can't believe it actually happened, I just climbed the hardest route I've ever tried. I spent 32 days here at the crag, falling many times at the same move, but this time I grabbed for the first time that pinch and it felt unreal, and I didn't any mistakes and went to the top with a perfect flow. I can finally join the 9b+ club of @adam.ondra @chris_sharma and @alexandermegos , without them it wouldn't be possible to push this limit further to this level. Thanks Chris for bolting this beautiful ( and hard) route, thanks Alex for climbing this route for the first time and made me realize it was possible, And obviously thanks to @sara_grip , the best supporter ever, in every conditions she was here with me. 📸@javipec • • • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @camp1889 @vertical.life.climbing @epictv @hrtholds @frictionlabs #neverstopexploring #fiammeoro • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

A post shared by Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) on

Here's a video of Alex Megos attempting the route a few days before his first ascent:


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Stefano is one of the world's top sport climbers and his list of hard routes include Adam Ondra's Change (9b) at Flatanger and Alex Megos' Perfecto Mundo (9b+) at...

Stefano's Athlete Page 18 posts 7 videos



11 Dec, 2018

I remember a clip of Ghisolfi and Sharma going full "Allez" at Megos while he was trying the route.

It was pointed out how strange it was that an American and Italian were shouting French at a German while in Spain.

11 Dec, 2018

It's the lingua franca.

11 Dec, 2018

It's bloody annoying.

11 Dec, 2018

I wouldn't mind the shouts of "Allez" when I climb.  Better than the usual "shit or get off the pot" style of comment I'm used to.

11 Dec, 2018

I don't mind it, in fact I prefer it Venga or dai dai!

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