French climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of a new 9b/+ at Pic Saint-Loup, France. The route is 50m in total and breaks down into a 9a+, followed by a Font 8A+ boulder problem. He has named the route Beyond Integral.
Bouin describes the moves on the route as 'amazing and spectacular' with everything from jumps, drop-knees and heels, to tufas and crimps. In terms of difficulty, he has compared the route to Move (f9b/+) in Flatanger, or La Rage d'Adam (f9b/+) in the Verdon Gorge. Bouin appears to be a big fan of the slash grade and has commented:
'It's hard to have a clear mind. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. That's why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece.'
The route was first bolted by Fedric Ferraro and Bouin also climbed an 8c+ bolted by Ferraro, naming it 'Terra Nova.'
For the past year, Bouin has been on a mission to complete the hardest routes in France on his Vintage Rock Tour. He's travelled to Buoux, Verdon and Céüse, repeating hard classics such as Biographie (f9a+) and adding some of his own like La Rage d'Adam in the Verdon.
Close to home project : FA "Beyond integral" 9b/+ (5.15b/c) ✔️ and "Terra Nova" 8c+ ✔️ After days and days on the top of the north face of the Pic Saint Loup mountain, I am more than happy to make last Tuesday the FA of "Beyond integral" 9b/+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. I can't count how many times I went on the upper section trying to find a sequence. That's the FA privilege 😁. This place means a lot to me. It's super cool to climb on the top of this beautiful mountain, dominating the valley. This 50 meters route is composed of two parts : a first 9a+ followed by a 8a+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, dropknees, hills, tuffas, crimps,... all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts. About the grade, it's hard to have a clear mind and to prononce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than "Move" or "La rage d'Adam". That's why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece 🤙 I also did the FA of "Terra Nova" 8c+ bolted by Fedric Ferraro. It's a nice line with a spicy end 😄. Thank you Fed to add new lines there 👌. This experience was special. At the beginning I thought I will not find the adventure I can find on a trip on a new area. Then, when I was involved in the process, I lived fully the adventure around my house. It was maybe more intense than a trip process. I rediscovered the Pic Saint Loup sector as it was a new crag. I enjoyed the walk to reach the top of that mountain. I rediscovered the warm up routes, and I was thinking of bolting new routes. There is always new adventures to live, even if you know really well the place. The video is coming in 2021, stay tuned 😎 Pic by @raphaelfourau ----------------------------------------- Première ascension : "Beyond integral" 9b/+ et "Terra Nova" 8c+ Après des jours et des jours dans cette face nord au sommet du Pic Saint Loup, je suis bien content de libérer mardi dernier le projet du moment "Beyond Integral" 9b/+, équipé par Fedric Ferraro. Texte complet en français sur ma page Facebook.