UKC

The Ticklist #31 - Hard Flash for Raboutou and Big Numbers for Young Guns

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An eclectic mix of bouldering, sport and drytooling...

Brooke Raboutou flashes Font 8A+

American boulderer and Olympic hopeful Brooke Raboutou has flashed Euro Trash (Font 8A+) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The 20-year-old also climbed yet another Font 8B - the imaginatively named Euro Roof Low Low - after placing 3rd at the Boulder World Cup in Salt Lake City. The first woman to have flashed 8A+ was Ashima Shiraishi in 2019 who ticked Lethal Design in Red Rocks, Nevada.

On her Instagram, Raboutou writes that initially, she wasn't going to climb but after watching people attempt Euro Trash, she ran back to the car and borrowed her mum's climbing shoes. She then proceeded to flash the 8A+ and climb the 8B in a matter of tries.

Raboutou is the daughter of top climbers Didier Raboutou and Robyn Erbesfield and has spent the past few years making giant leaps in terms of ability. She is one of the American climbers hoping for success at the Tokyo Olympics.

GB Climbing's Molly-Thompson Smith also made a quick ascent of the problem, and ticked an 8B yesterday.

Off the Wagon for Giuliano Cameroni

Giuliano Cameroni has made the fourth ascent of Off the Wagon Sit (Font 8C+) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. The 23-year-old Swiss climber had been attempting the problem for six years and unlike other ascentionists, he climbed the problem as a stand start. Normally, there is a farmer's wagon underneath the problem which Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Daniel Woods have all sat down on to complete the 8C+. Cameroni moved the wagon to one side and started on the same holds, but from standing. According to Cameroni, the difficulty doesn't change but it is 'more logical.'

9b for Jonatan Flor

24-year-old Jonatan Flor has made the first ascent of Picachu (9b) in the Ali Baba Cave of Rodellar. Flor believes the old Dani Andrada project is his hardest climb to date. He has climbed 9b before with ascents of Adam Ondra's La Planta de Shiva (9b) at Villanueva Del Rosario and Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start - again in the Ali Baba Cave and another first ascent. Picachu adds a Font 8B+ boulder problem into Ali Hulk Extension Total Sit Start, so it must be tough for the grade!

VIDEO: Eliot Stephens on The Origin Sit (Font 8C)

At the end of April, we reported that Eliot Stephens had climbed Wales' first Font 8C by adding a sit start to The Origin at Dinas Rock. In the video below, Eliot talks through his process of climbing the first ascent:

Quick Release M10+ by Caitlin Connor

18-year old GB Ice Climbing Team member Caitlin Connor has ticked Quick Release at The Works. The line has now had two female ascents, by Emma Powell and Caitlin.


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