UKC

The Ticklist: #60 Top Bouldering, Sport Kids, and Alpine Endeavours

© Elias Iagnemma Collection

This week's Ticklist features alpine solos and hard first ascents, a Swiss rampage and a future phenomenon...

Font 8C+ First Ascent by Elias Iagnemma

Italian climber Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of Ganesh in Tintorale, Italy, and graded it Font 8C+. The 26-year-old had previously climbed problems like Gioia (Font 8C/+) in Varazze. Iagnemma found the climb with his brother and after an intense day of cleaning, it took him another 15 sessions to complete.

Torre Egger solo by Quentin Roberts

Canadian alpinist has made the third solo ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia's Chalten Massif. Quentin summited at the same time that Korra Pesce, Tomás Aguiló and an Italian team (David Baci, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Matteo Della Bordella) completed their respective new routes on Cerro Torre, just hours before tragedy struck and Korra died after becoming injured by a rime ice mushroom collapse that left him incapacitated. On Instagram, Quentin wrote about being able to celebrate their ascents by communicating across the summits.

There is little information as yet regarding Korra and Tomás's new line and that of the Italian team, other than the fact that the latter have named their route 'Brothers in Arms' in a tribute to Korra. 

Quentin also paid tribute to Korra:

Brooke Raboutou continues Swiss rampage

American climber Brooke Raboutou has climbed Iur (Font 8B+) in Cresciano and Heritage (Font 8B) in Val Bavona to round up her time in Switzerland. The 20-year-old had recently made ascents of La Proue and Kings of Sonlerto - all problems that rarely see female ascents.

8c+ for Theo Blass

12-year-old Theo Blass has climbed Guerre Future (8c+) at Claret, France, which was also the second ascent of the route first climbed by Seb Bouin. Read our article on Theo below:

New route on Pointe Adolphe Rey by Tom Livingstone and Christophe Dumarest

Tom Livingstone and Christophe Dumarest have added a new route to the North face of Pointe Adolphe Rey in the Mont Blanc Massif. First spotted by Christophe, Changing Corners (M7, 250m) follows a series of dihedrals.

Tom wrote on Instagram: 'The granite is mostly good, footholds very small, and ice non-existent, which makes for a nice challenge. I suggested M6+ as an overall grade but I think Christophe's right: It'd be a real sandbagger!'

Below Zero 8B+ First Repeat by Dave MacLeod

After Will Bosi pipped him to the post recently, Dave MacLeod finally ticked his Loch Ruthven project Below Zero


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8 Feb

"The granite is mostly good, footholds very small, and ice non-existent, which makes for a nice challenge."

Sounds like a challenge for someone without tools then.

8 Feb

Was waiting to see it you included this.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/grandes-jorasses-directe-de-l-amitie-repeated-leo-billon-sebastien-ratel-benjamin-vedrines.html

GMHM team of French alpinists on an absolute jaw-dropping rampage. Just a fortnight after repeating the Harlin Direct on the Eiger N Face. And in amazing style too, freeing all but the A3 pitch.

Deeply poignant. Korra Pesce wrote a vivid article describing it as "the most challenging route up the Jorasses" from his own ascent in 2014 with Martin Elias. Probably the last time it was climbed. This time it was climbed while Korra and Tomy Aguilo were putting up their new route on Cerro Torre, prior to the tragedy on the descent.

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