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Sean Bailey Repeats Bibliographie (9b+) at Ceuse Newsflash

© Ben Neilson

American climber Sean Bailey has made the third ascent of Alex Megos' Bibliographie at Ceuse. Commenting on his ascent, Bailey has said: "Easily the hardest battle I've waged with myself. I've never been so obsessed."

After Stefano Ghisolfi's ascent of the route in August, both Megos and Ghisolfi have suggested the route could be closer to 9b+, as opposed to the 9c that Megos originally gave it. Whilst he is yet to comment on the grade, this route was a big step up for Bailey; his previous hardest being three 9a+'s, including an ascent of Chris Sharma's Biographie on the same wall back in 2016. 

He is perhaps best known for his bouldering and competition exploits. This year, he has won both the Chamonix and Villars Lead World Cups and won the Bouldering round in Salt Lake City. He has climbed two Font 8C+'s: Box Therapy and Grand Illusion - which Sean suggested was closer to 9a+/b due to the length. Still, climbing Bibliographie was an impressive jump for the 25-year-old.

On his ascent, Bailey said: 

"I was lucky to get through the middle crux pretty quick but proceeded to pump off the final boulder 12 or something times. Every time I was so blown I needed a rest day, so essentially I was getting one try every two days. It felt like I was resting more than climbing. I spent a lot of time questioning why I was putting myself through it. I knew I could train for it, come back another year with the right fitness and a fresher mind and probably have an easier time at it. In the end, I realised I needed to see this process through just as much as I needed to send, I'm glad I did! It taught me so much about the process. I spend a lot of time trying to make things happen, but sometimes you have to let things happen too."

Watch the documentary that follows Megos on the first ascent process:


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Seeing the word 'flash' next to the grade '9b+' made me look twice...
1 Oct

Well done Sean!

Meanwhile, from a cave in Czech Republic laughter can be heard.

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