This week's Friday Night Video follows Sean Bailey on his journey to establishing the world's ninth 9A/V17 boulder - Shaolin, in Red Rocks, Nevada.
The boulder first came to public attention in April last year, when Shawn Raboutou published a video documenting the hardest climbs in Red Rocks. He theorised at the time that the boulder - which shares the same starting holds as Trieste Sit 8B+, but then moves right - could be in the realm of 9A in difficulty.
In the video, Shawn and Sean work the boulder - then known as 'The Trieste Project' - on a top rope, with Bailey leaving soon after for Team USA trials.
Raboutou continued to work the boulder further, as documented in this video, where he goes into further detail on the Trieste Project and its various cruxes. He breaks the boulder down into two sections, a 'pretty hard' V13/8B intro into a 'stand start' position, which then goes directly into a 'two-move' V16/8C+.
'Having two moves at that difficulty, and adding anything into it really changes a lot' Raboutou says, 'that's kinda what makes this climb so interesting...the breakdown is really hard'.
After more than four years of effort from some of the world's strongest climbers, Bailey made the highly sought-after first ascent earlier this year.
Comments
Sorry to be anal but there's ten 9As: https://climbing-history.org/list/26/the-hardest-boulder-problems-in-the-world
I excluded Blackflip SDS from the list, as Vadim offered a slash grade of 8C+/9A both on Instagram and YouTube.