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Alex Megos Repeats King Capella - 9b+?

© Alex Megos Collection/@esteban.ele.eme

Alex Megos has repeated Will Bosi's King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. Will climbed the route in March of this year and graded the route 9b+ and whilst Alex has declined to speculate on the grade so far, he did find a sequence that was easier for him.

After Will's first ascent in March, Alex briefly attempted the route and realised that it suited his climbing style and strengths. He travelled to Siurana specifically to attempt the route again, spending a few weeks in the area. In total, the German had nine days on the route, uncovering different beta to Will who took a similar time period (ten sessions) to complete the route:

'After nine days on the route and two splits later I could get the first repeat of this very short and very crimpy test piece. I also used slightly different beta than Will taking a very wide pinch, which felt a little easier to me than what Will did. He couldn't do the move the way I did it though, so I guess it's personal preference. Very curious to hear what other people think!'

Whether or not Alex will comment on the grade remains to be seen, although it may be that further ascents are needed. Alex has climbed two other routes graded 9b+; Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie (originally given 9c but Alex agreed to a downgrade after Ghisolfi's ascent). Alex spent far longer periods on both routes than he did on King Capella, although it's hard to compare those routes as they have such contrasting styles; King Capella is short, powerful and hard to link, whereas Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie are endurance testpieces.

King Capella starts left of La Capella (9b) and has a set of bouldery sequences before some easier ground. The middle of the route also features an explosive dynamic move before heading straight into another hard sequence. Watch Will on the first ascent below:


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29 Nov, 2021

Must be pretty cool for Will to see a big name & strong fingers head to try your route!

Big ups.

29 Nov, 2021
29 Nov, 2021

Alex tried it before it was even done by Will.

3 Dec, 2021

Well I see

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