Fourth Ascent of Lexicon E11 7a by Mat Wright

© Marc Langley

Mat Wright has made the fourth ascent of Neil Gresham's Lexicon (E11 7a) at Pavey Ark. The route shares the start of Impact Day (E8 6c) up to a break, before taking a direct line up an overhanging headwall on small crimps with marginal footholds.

Not bad for one of your first trad routes: Mat Wright on Lexicon (E11 7a)  © Marc Langley
Not bad for one of your first trad routes: Mat Wright on Lexicon (E11 7a)
© Marc Langley

Neil first climbed the route in September 2021, quickly followed by a repeat by Steve McClure who was the first to test the gear. See the video from Posing Productions below:

In April 2022, Mat made the fifth ascent of Achemine (E9 6c) at Dumbarton Rock which was his first E9. He certainly jumped in the deep end because just over a month later, he found himself at the bottom of Lexicon. Mat is no stranger to hard sport climbing and bouldering, having redpointed up to 9a and climbed Font 8C, however his transition to the complexities of trad climbing has been impressive. He told UKC:

'From first hearing of Lexicon through the legend Neil Gresham, I have wanted to climb it. Suiting my strengths but also pushing hard at the walls around my comfort zone. A perfect exam of mental strength, commitment and physical ability. It would be the logical progression for my trad climbing.'

Mat spent roughly six sessions on the route over the past few weeks but had been thinking of the route since taking up trad climbing a few months ago:

'I knew I had the physical capabilities for Lexicon, but my mental game needed some work. So hard solos and dangerous routes have been prioritised.

'I set off on this journey all too aware that a fall from the crux could result in a deck out from crux at 30m (100ft). Not something I wanted to test!

'Fortunately, I didn't have to. Nerve endings on fire, fear eating away at every muscle; I pulled over the top. An experience I'll remember for the rest of my life. And one that feels so natural.'

Despite being a relative newcomer to trad climbing (albeit one who's just climbed one of the hardest routes in the country), Mat was still able to offer some thoughts on the grade: 

'Regarding the difficulty, I completely agree with Neil's suggested grade of E11 7a. The climbing was incredibly hard, and insecure. Due to its minimalistic nature, the feet can pop at any moment, particularly on the final moves where you really cannot fall. Steve tested this fall but both Neil and I believe that Steve was incredibly lucky to not be injured. Even though the gear is good in the break, you cannot be certain that it won't rip from the force of an 80ft fall, shock loading the system. I really didn't want to test this.'

Mat also sung the praises of his 'hero' Neil Gresham who inspired him from a young age through his Masterclass DVDs:

'I would like to credit him on putting up such a perfect route at age 50. I wouldn't be the climber I am today if it wasn't for his incredible coaching and it's the greatest honour to repeat the master's most prized route.'

He now plans to enjoy a 'summer of adventure' before attempting Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody (E11 7a) at Dumbarton Rock in the Autumn.

This post has been read 7,007 times

Return to Latest News

Mat Wright

Mat Wright has quickly become a very capable sport climber, having climbed 8c+ in his first four years of climbing. He's already ticked Evolution, Devolution and Mecca Extension, so...

Mat's Athlete Page 8 posts 3 videos

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

Outstanding. Gresham, McClure and Macleod...... what great company to be in at a relatively young age.

23 May

Dave Macleod said that at 43 he was by some way the youngest person to climb the route! Not anymore, but the article doesn't say how old Mat is.

23 May

The report on him climbing Hubble 2 years ago said he was 22 if I remember right, so definitely still a proper "strong yoof"! 💪

23 May

What a frightening club to belong to...!

24 May

His instagram is mathewwright1998, and I think it's a resonable assumption that's the year of his birth, making him 23 or 24.

So definitely taken Dave's title

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest