The IFSC World Cup returned to the EICA in Ratho, Edinburgh on what would become a historic weekend for both Britain and British climbing. The venue was a last-minute replacement for the Wujiang round in China, which was cancelled due to ongoing COVID restrictions in the country. With little time to plan, the event organisers put on a fantastic show and respectfully handled the changing situation upon the news of HM Queen Elizabeth II's death. Following government protocol on sporting events, a social media blackout was adhered to and a minute's silence was held before each final. And for the first time since 1994, a British male won a World Cup medal in Lead.

Speed

In the Speed finals, yet more history was made. Samuel Watson of the USA won his country's first ever Speed gold medal and a first ever head-to-head sibling race for the Polish Kalucka twins took place.

Up against China's Long Jinbao, who on paper was the favourite with experience, medals and quicker times on his side, Watson won in a scrappy race with slips in a time of 5.97 ahead of Jinbao's 6.93 seconds.

"I'm feeling amazing. Feeling great," said Watson. "I have been loving the atmosphere here, I couldn't ask for anything better here in Edinburgh. It's a beautiful city with great vibes. The competition. Beautiful venue. I am just loving everything."

In the small final, Gian Luca Zodda (ITA) false-started and secured Eric Noya Cardona (ESP) a World Cup bronze medal.

Throughout the competition, Emma Hunt (USA) was on good form, breaking the PanAmerican record with a time of 7.02 seconds in qualification and finishing 3rd in the small final after clocking 6.84 seconds to set a new PanAm record. In the women's event, the battle for Gold between sisters Aleksandra and Natalie Kalucka (POL) was won by Aleksandra following a slip near the start from Natalia. 

Lead

The men's semis route featured a bouldery shoulder press, which spat off nearly half of the field. Great Britain's Toby Roberts completed the powerful move and secured himself a place in the final on home turf.

British qualifiers Jim Pope and Molly Thompson-Smith finished 25th and 17th in their respective semi-finals. 

On the Sunday evening, the atmosphere in the arena heightened as the lights dropped in the quarry and the spotlight followed the finalists up the articulated competition wall. Following a minute's silence in memory of HM the Queen, the men's final began. Toby Roberts (GBR) set an early high point of 30+ and seemed relaxed in what was his first senior World Cup final. The support from a home crowd was strong, and his performance only became more impressive as successive climbers fought to match or surpass his score. 

Only Luka Potocar and Jesse Grupper - previous winners this season in Koper and Briançon - could beat Toby. Jesse calmly topped the route in the nick of time, appearing unphased. He appeared overwhelmed and emotional following his Top. He told the IFSC: "I'm pretty ecstatic. After last weekend [in Koper] I definitely felt I was at a low point in competition climbing. I knew I still had it in me, and I have been training pretty hard. I am probably the most fit I have been all season and it feels so rewarding to feel that I am back."

Just four British Men had previously made it onto the podium in a Lead World Cup: Simon Nadin, who won four golds, one silver, one bronze and was World Cup Series Winner in 1989; Jerry Moffatt, who took gold in Leeds 1989 and four silvers; Ben Moon who won silver in Innsbruck 1991 and Madonna di Campiglioni in 1990, and Ian Vickers, who earned bronze in Moscow in 1994.

"This was unexpected!" Toby's dad Tristian told me after the final. Despite this, if you've followed Toby's competition trajectory of late - golds in European youth events, a gold this summer at a senior European Cup and two silvers at the World Youth Championships in Dallas last month - it's clear that he's in the form of his life. He told UKC:

"I still can't believe the result in Edinburgh – it was incredible to stand on the podium with Jesse Grupper and Luka Potocar. I normally watch World Cup finals on TV, so to be part of one and stand on the podium felt very surreal. It felt amazing to win my first World Cup medal at home in front of a crowd who were cheering so loudly and offering so much support. After a lot of travel with Munich and then Dallas it was nice to have a home World Cup and massive thanks to everyone involved in organising it. I'm now very psyched for my next comps – I'm hoping to compete in a Combined event to end my international season before starting to train for next year."

In the women's semi-final, there were two tops from Chaehyun Seo (KOR) and Ai Mori (JPN). There has been a lot of debate surrounding the difficulty of the women's routes this season, and Janja - who placed 3rd in semis - complained on Instagram afterwards: 'Is it possible to set something other than jugs?' 

In the finals, a controlled Top from Janja put pressure on Ai Mori (JPN). Like Jesse, Ai managed to secure a Top with just seconds to spare. "I was feeling nervous before I started because I knew Janja had reached the top, and that meant I had to. But when I climb I just forget about my nerves and enjoy it," she commented in her post-climb interview. Chaehyun Seo, who qualified jointly with Ai, couldn't find the necessary power to complete the last few moves after stopping to rest for a long period in the roof. 

Janja therefore missed her second gold in the space of a week, although she remains 1515 points ahead of Chaehyun Seo in the overall rankings.

For visiting athletes, it was an eventful weekend to be in the UK. On the journey home, the Slovenian team's flight was dirsupted by the arrival of King Charles III at Edinburgh Airport on Monday. 

The next round of Lead and Speed is in Jakarta, Indonesia from 24 September.