UKC

Sista Bossen E8 for Freja Shannon

© BritRock Films

Freja Shannon has made an ascent of Sista Bossen (n9-), a 35 metre E8 route in Bohuslän, Sweden.

The steep granite route, which was first climbed by Petter Restorp in 2011, is officially graded 9- in the Swedish system, which equates to E8. Freja worked the route for around three weeks, whilst racing the heat of summer and worsening conditions.

In a blog post shortly after making the first ascent, Restorp described Sista Bossen - which translates to 'Final Boss' - as one of the 'last lines' to be developed on the steep Branta Väggen wall, featuring a diverse range of tiny crimps, poor slopers, burly moves, and thin cracks.

Freja Shannon on the thin cracks of Sista Bossen, E8.  © BritRock Films
Freja Shannon on the thin cracks of Sista Bossen, E8.
© BritRock Films

When we spoke to Freja last week, she said that the varied quality of the route was part of what made it so intimidating, but also what drew her to it:

'I chose this route because it looks impossible at first glance. Thin cracks, tiny holds and slopers make the route about body position, tension and really trusting your feet and tiny granite crystals. I felt that the route would be a good lesson in delicate climbing as it's not about raw strength or power. There are three cruxes and it's really not over until it's over!'

'The route climbs two cracks, and to stitch the two you climb a spicy traverse across the face, though the moves are so engaging you don't really have time to think about it'.

Freja moves out onto the thin crimps of the traverse section.  © BritRock Films
Freja moves out onto the thin crimps of the traverse section.
© BritRock Films

'Then follows a crux section of high feet and slopers into side pulls and crimps which feel impossible unless conditions are just right. Before the second crux section you drop one of your ropes which feels pretty exciting halfway up the route and reminds me of trad climbing back home in Ireland'.

'Two thirds of the way up you're rewarded with a really good rest, so good that you have time to think about (and freak out about the last crux) which finishes with a bit of a run out..'

'It went down surprisingly quick on lead, totally unexpectedly, with an epic fight!'

A film featuring Freja, including this ascent, will be part of the 2023 BritRock Film Tour, due for release this Autumn.


This post has been read 4,632 times

Return to Latest News




Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email