UKC

Pete Whittaker climbs Pura Pura, 8c trad

© Pete Whittaker

Fresh off the FA of his 9a trad route Crown Royale in Norway, Pete Whittaker has made the second ascent of Tom Randall's Pura Pura, an 8c trad route in Orco, Italy.

The route adds a sit start traverse boulder to the famous crack line Greenspit.

Originally a route that had been bolted but remained unclimbed, Greenspit saw its first ascent in 2003 at the hands of Didier Berthod, who removed the bolts and climbed it on pre-placed gear. Didier then returned to make a second ascent, during which he placed all gear on lead, in 2005. He described the route at the time as 'the most difficult crack in Europe'.

Pete during his 2010 ascent of Greenspit, 8b &copy Tom Randall/Lattice Training  © Tom Randall - Lattice Training
Pete during his 2010 ascent of Greenspit, 8b © Tom Randall/Lattice Training

The twelve metre pitch became well known due to its inclusion in the 2006 film First Ascent. Tom made the third ascent of the route three years after the film's release, in 2009, with Pete making his own ascent the following year.

In 2014, Tom returned to add a sit-start to the route. Inspired by Dani Andrada's cave link-ups, and with the solitary goal of creating 'a complete endurance burl-fest', Tom added the thirteen metre boulder traverse Greenshadow into Greenspit, making the twenty-five metre Pura Pura, which he originally proposed at 8c+.

Tom Randall on the lower boulder problem section of The Pura Pura - 8c+ Link-Up  © Tom Randall Collection
Tom Randall on the lower boulder problem section of The Pura Pura - 8c+ Link-Up
© Tom Randall Collection

As reported on UKC at the time, Tom described Pura Pura as aiming 'to link together two climbs of equal length, difficulty, and steepness – Greenshadow and Greenspit. You climb all of Greenshadow with a rope on and then immediately press on into the amazing roof of Greenspit, with the crux lying in wait right at the end. All in all it's about twenty-five metres of extremely steep roof crack climbing and one that leaves your shoulders and core feeling like useless lumps of flesh hung on a skeleton'.

Pete's own ascent comes just a week after his first ascent of the hundred-metre single pitch 'ultimate pump fest', Crown Royale, 9a.

'Pretty sure only Tom Randall would think of doing this', he shared on Instagram after climbing Pura Pura, 'but it makes for a good pumpy linkup if you're into that stuff. As you can tell from the colour of my face in the photo, I was working hard at the end'.

Pete on Pura Pura, 8c  © Pete Whittaker
Pete on Pura Pura, 8c
© Pete Whittaker

Pete has suggested a grade of 8c for the route.


To give a sense of the route and its difficulties, here's a short video of Tom's process on Pura Pura from 2014.


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