Just nine days after Florian Wientjes made the second ascent of Ryuichi Murai's Floatin, 8C+, Ryohei Kameyama has made the third ascent of the boulder, in Mizugaki, Japan.

The boulder is Kameyama's third at the grade, having also climbed La Révolutionnaire Assis and No Kpote Only, both in Fontainebleau, the latter of which he downgraded from 9A.

Floatin, first climbed by Murai in 2021, has become well known for its dynamic and powerful climbing, with Murai's original beta including two big upwards campus moves, a delicate cross through, and a downwards campus.

Both Wientjes and Kameyama have adapted the beta slightly, both starting with a foot on at the beginning rather than campusing like Murai. Whilst the downwards campus move seems unavoidable, Kameyama was also able to find a foothold for the second upwards campus move.

Reporting his ascent on Instagram, Kameyama said:

'Seeing Ryuichi's first ascent and other strong climbers' repeat attempts, it was an impressive move that I wanted to touch even if I couldn't climb it. At the same time, I was aware of the difficulty of the move even before trying it. I was not able to [complete] the first move, and [was unsuccessful on] the first three days of my first attempt'.

Kameyama on his fourth session on the boulder.

'A year later, I tried again and found that the rock conditions were perfect, so I was able to make the first move. Since it was a long way to Mizugaki, I decided to make a long rest to connect with the start of the climb. I was able to concentrate surprisingly well and topped out on that attempt. I felt like I was just barely floating'.

You can watch Kameyama's third ascent of the boulder below: