UKC

Will Bosi upgrades Nova to 8C

© Jana Švecová

Will Bosi has made the second ascent of Jana Švecová's Nova, 8B+, at Moravian Karst, Czech Republic, and has given the boulder an upgrade to 8C. 

If the upgrade stands, it would makes Švecová's ascent of Nova the world's first 8C first ascent by a woman, and the fourth female ascent at the grade chronologically. 

Nova, which Švecová established in June this year, is a boulder within Adam Ondra's Terranova, 8C+. It shares a sit-start with the 8B+ boulder Sedni si na kosts, before joining Terranova around the middle of the boulder and climbing it to the end, covering the latter twelve of Terranova's twenty one hand moves.

When Švecová first created the boulder as an intermediate goal whilst working Terranova, she said 'it could be an 8B+/8C boulder problem by itself'. Švecová eventually graded the boulder 8B+, a grade she had already climbed twice, but described it as her 'hardest boulder yet'.

Jana had to work out alternative beta due to being almost a foot shorter than Adam  © Jana Švecová/Climbing Life
Jana had to work out alternative beta due to being almost a foot shorter than Adam
© Jana Švecová/Climbing Life

Speaking to us earlier today, Will said:

'Time-wise, Nova is one of the longest boulder projects I've had! I think compared to the Swiss 8C's I've done, Nova is definitely harder!'

'Compared to a lot, but not all, of the UK 8C's I've done, I think it's harder too. For example Isles of Wonder SDS (f8C+) which I downgraded to 8C only took three sessions, and is definitely not my style. It's hard to compare to the longer ones at Badger Cave, but compared to some of my Raven Tor lines it definitely feels more in line with the harder ones'.

Will Bosi on Nova, 8C  © Jana Švecová
Will Bosi on Nova, 8C
© Jana Švecová

Will took six sessions to complete Nova, and said on Instagram that the boulder deserved an upgrade 'as it took more work and days than all the other 8C's [that he'd] climbed in the Czech Republic so far'.

'I'd also like to think it suits my style as it's limestone crimping so I think that factors in', he continued, 'hopefully it will see some more repeats soon and we get more opinions'.

Will has previously mentioned that the full line, Terranova, is one of the only boulders that he's tried that is of a similar difficulty to Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (f9A), stating that Terranova was 'on the same level' as Burden of Dreams, and harder than Alphane (f9A).

His upgrade of Nova from 8B+ to 8C only goes further to support the idea that Terranova could, in fact, be 9A.

Terranova-upgrade speculation aside, the recent downgrade of Box Therapy from 8C+ to 8C means that the first female 8C+ ascent remains up for grabs. As such, if Jana Švecová's prolonged seige on Terranova bears fruit, it may well break new ground regardless of whether it is upgraded or not.

Will is due to livestream a session on Terranova at around 1:30pm today, keep an eye on his YouTube channel for when the stream goes live.


Check out the video below to see Adam making the first ascent back in 2011.


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Edinburgh born Will Bosi is one of the world's top climbers. At just 17 years of age, Will became the youngest Brit to have climbed 9a with his repeat of Rainshadow at Malham Cove. In 2018 he became first British male...

Will's Athlete Page 61 posts 33 videos



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