Marine Thenevet has made the first female ascent of Juneru (8C), at Arrastradero, Albarracin, Spain.

Her ascent makes her just the eighth woman to have climbed an 8C boulder. 

Established by Rubén Díaz Torres in October 2020, Juneru was one of Albarracin's longest standing projects before it saw its first ascent. In proposing 8C, Díaz Torres made Juneru Albarracin's first boulder at the grade, and therefore the hardest boulder in Albarracin. 

The crux of the boulder revolves around a tiny three finger undercut for the left hand, which the climber must stand up into before bumping out right. There are a number of different betas that climbers have used to get through this section, with first ascensionist Rubén Díaz Torres and Nathan Phillips both moving the right hand twice from the poor left crimp, and James Pearson finding a kneebar which allowed him to keep the right hand low, and move off the poor left hand straight away. 

Thenevet introduced a new beta yet again, taking the same right hand gaston as Díaz Torres and Phillips, before going directly upwards with the left hand, and then reaching out wide with the right hand.

Thenevet first tried the boulder in autumn last year, and came close to making an ascent after only two sessions. Having climbed through the low crimpy section, she fell during the slopey and insecure mantle at the very top of the boulder.

With a return trip to Albarracin on the calendar, Thenevet trained specifically for this boulder in the run up to the trip. The training paid dividends, as she climbed the boulder on just her second session this year.

Speaking on social media, Thenevet said:

'Yesterday, I found myself at the top of this dream boulder. Surprised, happy, and damn proud! A sweet revenge after falling right at the top a year ago'.

'I would have loved to send it at the same time as Hugo during that amazing session in October 2023, but sending it yesterday feels even better, for all the hard work I put in and for all the moments shared with those who supported me throughout this journey'.

'It's just a piece of rock, a pretty good one, but for me, it's pure joy and the end of a beautiful adventure!'

Prior to climbing Juneru, Thenevet had two ascents at 8B+ to her name, New Base Line (f8B+) in Magic Wood, and Compass North (f8B+) in Val de Bagnes.