UKC

Katie Lamb climbs Fallen Angel, 8C/V15

© Katie Lamb

Katie Lamb has made the first female ascent of Fallen Angel, 8C/V15.

The boulder is Lamb's third at the grade, after her ascent of Equanimity earlier this year made her the first woman to have climbed multiple boulders at 8C.

Fallen Angel, which - like Equanimity - is found close to Lake Tahoe, was first climbed by Jimmy Webb in November 2021.

Fallen Angel, 8C  © Katie Lamb
Fallen Angel, 8C
© Katie Lamb

Shawn Raboutou went on to make the boulder's second ascent during the same session, with David Fitzgerald and Keenan Takahashi making the third and fourth ascents of Fallen Angel in 2022 and 2024 respectively.

The boulder begins with a high step into the starting undercling, before a series of left hand bumps through a small intermediate to a gaston position. The climber must then bring their right foot close to their right hand, locking their left shoulder, and keeping their left toe pressed into the roof of the undercling to keep them close to the rock.

Then, where previous ascensionists have gone to a sharp 'shark's tooth' crimp - a hold that Jimmy Webb described as his 'least favourite hold on the planet' - and then jumped directly for the final jug, Lamb instead uses a sloping intermediate, before matching the gaston rail, as can be seen in the video below.

Sharing news of the ascent on social media, Lamb simply said:

'Don't have much to say to the phone world right now, you'll just have to trust that this meant a lot to me'.


Check out the video series below to see three of Fallen Angel's ascensionists - Katie, Keenan, and David - as they explore both new and established boulders at Fairhead in the UK, alongside Aidan Roberts, Dan Varian, and Dillon Mclaughlin.


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Katie Lamb is one of the world's strongest boulderers. In 2023, she became the first woman to climb 8C+/V16 with her ascent of Box Therapy, in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.

Katie's Athlete Page 7 posts 2 videos



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