Buster Martin has made an ascent of Super Crackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger, France.

The route, his third at 9a+ in 2024 alone, was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2016, but is best known for its second ascent, when Adam Ondra became the first person ever to flash a route at 9a+.

Since then, the route has seen ascents from Julia Chanourdie, Seb Berthe, and Nolwen Berthier, amongst others. Shortly after Buster added his own name to that list, we sent him some questions to find out more about his time on the route, as well as the reasons why 2024 has seen him in such good form:

Congratulations on climbing Super Crackinette! You're having an incredible year so far, with three of your four ascents at 9a+ having come in the last seven months! How does it feel to be climbing so well?

Thanks, Xa. It's rewarding to see all the years of effort accumulate. It's been a real privilege to climb in these places with so many passionate people. I've been climbing for seventeen years, but feel like I'm just getting started.

If you look back over the past twelve months, are there any approaches or changes that you've applied that stick out as having made a big difference?

No secret tricks, other than drinking less beer. I've not gotten much stronger or fitter in a few years, but I've certainly gained considerably more experience in the craft of redpointing and general tactics. I've also been very inspired by my friends and clients, which has given me an energy I haven't had in my climbing for a long time.

Ultimately, I've sacrificed other areas of life, and things have fallen into place with little mishaps; no injuries etc. I spent less time with my friends and family, had fewer fun days out bouldering, and endured many cold nights alone in my van. I did the training I didn't want to do, took rest days when I'd rather climb, and stayed on trips long after my friends had gone, facing tough conditions and often unsure who I'd get a belay from. When I wasn't on a trip, I was working and training; on trips, I'd wake up, work, climb, and work again in the evening with no time for anything else.

I'd say overall, less fun—but I've had a lot of balance in my life and it's nice to focus and get the rewards for a bit.

You might ask what the point is if it's not fun. Being at the crag, on the rocks, is mostly fun, and there are areas of climbing that are pure joy, but it's not always plain sailing. Those moments when it all falls into place despite all the obstacles are total magic, and totally worth it. 

Tell us about Super Crackinette—when did you first encounter the route, and how did you get on with it the first time around?

I checked it out on a day trip from Céüse, a much-needed break from a battle with Biographie (L1+L2) (9a+). Super Crackinette suited me perfectly, and I knew I could climb it. It was a respite for my ego and nice to see all the training paying off since it wasn't on Bio.

What was the crux of the route for you, and how did you work your way through it?

Finding conditions. This is almost always the case. The hard work and form are built in the gym, but it really takes patience to clip the chains.

When I arrived in Saint Léger, there was only a twenty minute window of shade before dark. The temps were also in the mid-twenties. I've learned that it's best to have a few goes in those conditions rather than bang your head against the wall. It needs to be cold for the tiny crimps, and you can barely chalk up, but if it's too cold, you numb out. In the end, I was rewarded with perfect conditions.

9a+ is a grade that the vast majority of us will never come close to touching, and yet many people will know Super Crackinette as the route that Adam Ondra flashed—the hardest flash ascent ever to date. As one of very, very few people who have successfully climbed this route, can you give us some context as to how baffling Adam's flash of the route is?

It's very impressive, but if you're at the level to be flashing 9a+, this route is a good pick. The holds are all visible from the ground, they're not too fiddly to hold, and the movements themselves are quite basic, in a power-endurance style.

There's also not really any hard moves. Bouldery routes can be hard to flash because you need to get the moves perfectly, and long routes can also be tricky because there's so much to remember, and you need to maintain efficiency.

That being said, what makes this route an impressive flash (outside of the pure difficulty) is that, although the moves are all simple to do first go and not that hard, this route requires a certain level of flow and pacing. There's no rest and no time to think. If it goes well, it's not that bad, but if you start to pull a bit too hard and lose pacing, efficiency, and momentum, then it's game over.

You mentioned on Instagram that you fell four times from the final move. Talk us through the final moments of the successful ascent and how it felt gearing up for that final move.

It was lovely. The conditions were perfect, and I knew I was in. Everything had lined up, and my mind was peaceful. Often, when I find that flow state on redpoints, there's not a total emptiness. There are still positive and negative thoughts, but they disappear as quickly as they come—there's no judgment.

I'd really fumbled the bottom, but it didn't fluster me, and climbing felt effortless. I climbed the route in total control, but for that last move, you have to let go a little. Being in that mental state is so freeing and enjoyable that I didn't think twice, and my hand hit the final jug.

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