UKC

Shauna Coxsey makes the second ascent of Lupin, 8B/V13

© Shauna Coxsey Collection

Shauna Coxsey has made the second ascent of Lupin, 8B, on Stanton Moor in the Peak District just one month after Jim Pope put up the problem. There's only a single hold on the entire problem, and one extremely hard move, so it's minimalist; however, in the words of its first ascensionist 'it's a good challenge, just for difficulty's sake.' 

It took Shauna two sessions to complete the problem, climbing the first section quite quickly, but requiring another day to link it. On Instagram, Shauna said:

'Bouldering is a funny old sport. Loved the process (mostly) on this one from Jim Pope! Glad to squeeze it in before leaving the UK for a few weeks.

'Worst foot holds I've ever used? Quite possibly! I wish I'd done a close up of just how bad they are, but you can check out the video of Jim on Wedge Climbing to see if you'd like.'

Shauna's ascent comes off the back of a series of incredible ascents, having climbed a total of five 8B+ boulder problems - four of which she's done since the start of 2024. The most recent was Mito Sit (8B+) in Sintra, Portugal, which she climbed last month. She did this in the fast style which has become her signature, requiring just two sessions.

Jim's ascent was documented in a wonderful Wedge Climbing video:


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Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 86 posts 19 videos



13 Mar

Rob, I admire the restraint it must have taken to not slip in some triggering words or phrases. You are a proper adult.

Shauna, obviously, as always, a beast.

13 Mar

“Shauna fires Pope’s mini rig Lupin. This boulder only took Shauna two sessions to crush, trying bot rips from sesh one”

13 Mar

I'm down with most of that, but obviously have more to learn - what is a bot rip?? Does it just mean trying really hard?

13 Mar

Rip = Americanese for a try

Bot = bottom

Bot rips = tries from the start

13 Mar

Brilliant! Thanks

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