Franco Cookson


About

© Jake Hampshire

United Kingdom
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I'm a 26 year-old climber from Yorkshire in the North of England. I got into climbing the old fashioned way and am now learning the potential of modern training.  My formative years were spent trying to establish the hardest and boldest routes I could in the North York Moors. These days I've branched out from my home turf and am beginning to explore Northumberland, The Lake District, Scotland and even the odd route in the Alps. Some of the most magical moments of my climbing so far:

  • First ascent of Nothing Lasts (E11 7a), Sandy Crag, Northumberland
  • Surviving a 20m groundfall in 2011
  • First ascent of I Am You (E7 7b), Coquette View, Northumberland
  • Tucking into dinner below a perfect Chamonix sunset at the bivi with my good friend, the late Ian Jackson
  • Flashing Dave MacLeod's Apophenia (E7 6c), Glen Shian, Scotland
  • First Ascent of Sky Burial (E10 6b), Maiden's Bluff, North York Moors
  • First Ascent of Divine Moments of Truth (E10 7a), Kay Nest, North York Moors
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Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Franco

Franco Cookson on The Young  © Russel Lovett

News Ground Up Variation of The Young for Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson has climbed a variation of The Young at Callaly ground up. The stunning Tombstone Buttress was first climbed by Andy Earl and has since been repeated by Dan Varian, who climbed slightly right at the top, where Andy took a direct lin...

Franco Cookson on his 2013 route Psykovsky's Sequins  © Jake Hampshire
Franco Cookson on his 2013 route Psykovsky's Sequins  © Jake Hampshire

Article Franco Cookson's Guide to Headpointing

The evil word. Pre-practice, top roping, working: all synonyms for that most diabolical of threats to stylistic purity. Even before Alastair Lee's aesthetic masterpiece Onsight, headpointing had got a bit of a dubious reputation for allowing Trad...

Tim Blake on Opportunity Challenge (E6 6b)   © Mark Savage
Tim Blake on Opportunity Challenge (E6 6b)   © Mark Savage

Destination Guide Spittal Crag, Northumberland

Franco Cookson shares the delights of Spittal Crag in Northumberland... In 2005 Cassim Ladha, Steve Burdett and Ged Desforges decided to investigate a crag Steve had seen when working near Berwick. Packed into an old Vauxhall Astra, they drove until...

Franco repeating Academia E10.  © Franco Cookson
Franco repeating Academia E10.  © Franco Cookson

News Academia E10 repeated by Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson has repeated Academia E10 at Boscawen Point. Academia is one of a handful of Cornish E10s put up by Mark...

The Young  © Nick Brown
The Young  © Nick Brown

Article Franco Cookson's Guide to Highballing

Highballing is the most modern form of climbing. In essence, it involves climbing a high rock, with use of crash mats to...

Playful Climbing At A Serious Height - On The FA Of Archaeopteryx   © Mark Von Rankine
Playful Climbing At A Serious Height - On The FA Of Archaeopteryx   © Mark Von Rankine

Destination Guide The Yorkshire Coast

A decade ago there was no climbing documented on the sea cliffs north of Filey. In recent years the wealth of crags along the 50...

Franco Cookson on the Magic Scoop  © Russel Lovett
Franco Cookson on the Magic Scoop  © Russel Lovett

News Franco Cookson climbs hard highball at Highcliffe Nab

Franco Cookson has climbed the 'magic scoop' project at Highcliffe Nab; a hard and highball line that heads up...

Franco making the first ascent of Nothing Lasts H10 7a  © Franco Cookson
Franco making the first ascent of Nothing Lasts H10 7a  © Franco Cookson

News Nothing Lasts H10 7a by Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson making the first ascent of Black Knight at E7 6c  © Franco Cookson
Franco Cookson making the first ascent of Black Knight at E7 6c  © Franco Cookson

News Black Knight Re-Climbed at E7 6c by Franco Cookson

Franco Cookson on the FA of MYXOMOP (E9/8A?) at Stoupe Brow  © Si Litchfield
Franco Cookson on the FA of MYXOMOP (E9/8A?) at Stoupe Brow  © Si Litchfield

News Impressive New Highball / Solo for Franco Cookson

Franco climbing Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a  © Franco Cookson
Franco climbing Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a  © Franco Cookson

Update Franco Cookson and Divine Moments of Truth H10 7a

Franco Cookson on his new route Psykovsky's Sequins (E10 7a)  © Jake Hampshire
Franco Cookson on his new route Psykovsky's Sequins (E10 7a)  © Jake Hampshire

News Franco Cookson Adds New E10 to NY Moors

Franco about to hit the deck from 20 metres on 'The Incurable Itch without side runners' E9 7a** ish  © Franco Cookson
Franco about to hit the deck from 20 metres on 'The Incurable Itch without side runners' E9 7a** ish  © Franco Cookson

Video Franco Cookson takes 20m Ground Fall

Franco Cookson on The Hypocrisy of Moose  © Lee Robinson / Betaguides.com
Franco Cookson on The Hypocrisy of Moose  © Lee Robinson / Betaguides.com

Video Franco Cookson Headpoints New Possible E8

UKC Logbooks 100,000 routes  © UKC News
UKC Logbooks 100,000 routes  © UKC News

News 100,000 Routes in UKC Logbook - Franco Cookson


Latest Reviews for Franco's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

Sport Climbing Harness review  © UKC Gear

Lightweight Sport Climbing Harnesses

For a dedicated sport climbing harness you will want something light, comfortable and fairly simple. In this group test the UKC team go through some of the best lightweight sport harnesses on offer.

Trango portrait  © Toby Archer
Trango portrait  © Toby Archer

La Sportiva Trango Tower Extreme GTX

With a lightweight upper and an excellent balance of support and nimble-footedness, the Trango Tower Extreme GTX are superb technical mountain boots, says Toby Archer. So it's a shame the soles seem to wear so quickly.

Women's down jackets thumbnail  © UKC Gear
Women's down jackets thumbnail  © UKC Gear

Women's Midweight Down Jackets

Ten women's down jackets from leading brands go head-to-head in this comprehensive group test. What does 'midweight' even mean? And by that definition, which models stand out? All will be revealed...

They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear
They're a fantastic all-round technical tool  © UKC Gear

Petzl NOMIC and ERGONOMIC

Martin McKenna makes the best of a lean season to trial Petzl's two new top-end technical ice tools.

Double thumbs up for the Skwamas...and knee bar rests...  © UKC Gear
Double thumbs up for the Skwamas...and knee bar rests...  © UKC Gear

La Sportiva Women's Otaki & Skwama

In 2018 La Sportiva greatly increased their range of women's climbing shoes. From this extended range, the Skwama and Otaki...

mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear
mountain boots group test  © UKC Gear

All Round B1-B2 Mountain Boots

Mountaineering involves all sorts of terrain, so a general mountain boot has to be an all-rounder. We look at eight models that...

ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown
ISPO 2019 top 10 montage  © Nick Brown

ISPO 2019 - Best in Show

The annual ISPO outdoor trade show has just wrapped up for 2019. Among the many new products shown to us by attending brands, a number...


Latest News from Franco's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

Commemorative Montane BMC Terra and Terra Ridge Pants

Production of BMC themed Terra and Terra Ridge pants are released to celebrate Montane as the Recommended Clothing and Pack Partner of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) – and to commemorate their excellent work in encouraging the nation int...

Enhanced Protection  © Petzl
Enhanced Protection  © Petzl

Petzl Helmets - Top and Side Protection

Petzl's latest helmets guarantee a certain level of protection throughout the entire helmet and not just the top. These helmets carry Petzl's proprietary label--TOP AND SIDE PROTECTION--for easy identification.

La Sportiva Bushido II

The Bushido II is a super light, extra grippy and aggressive shoe designed to ensure perfect stability and support on all types of off-road terrain from canal foot paths to the trail of the Lake District.

Montane Summer Range Preview

A look at Montane's new Summer Range, with some updated classics alongside innovative new products.

Montane Updates Fast Alpine 40 Climbing Pack

New for this season, Montane have updated their iconic Fast Alpine climbing pack to increase usability and...

ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC
ispo 2019 Footwear and Packs  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Footwear and Packs

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of gigantic...

ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC
ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Climbing Hardware Roundup

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of...