James 'Caff' McHaffie


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United Kingdom
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James is a full time climbing instructor and coach. You can book him via his website.

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Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring James

James Mchaffie.  © UKC News

News James Mchaffie on New-Routeing Spree

James 'Caff' Mchaffie has been busy establishing two new E7 trad lines on Lundy and five new routes in the Dinorwic slate quarries in Llanberis, while using one of his ascents to campaign for action against climate change.

Caff contemplating before setting off.  © John Bunney
Caff contemplating before setting off.  © John Bunney

News James McHaffie becomes The Master

After a harrowing experience on an onsight attempt of Jerry Moffat's Master's Wall E7 6b on Cloggy in 2000 aged 18, James 'Caff' McHaffie never returned to his unfinished business - until this month. On Thursday, he finally ticked the line that both eluded and...

Emma Twyford  © UKC News
Emma Twyford  © UKC News

News Dyer's Lookout E9s by Twyford, McHaffie and Cope

Emma Twyford and James 'Caff' McHaffie had a whirlwind trip to Dyer's Lookout earlier this week, in which they completed the two ~50m king lines of the crag. Emma headpointed Dave Birkett's Once Upon a Time in the South West E9 6c and Caff...

James Mchaffie on Youtopia E8 6c.  © James Mchaffie
James Mchaffie on Youtopia E8 6c.  © James Mchaffie

News New Llanberis Pass E8 6c and more by James Mchaffie

James 'Caff' Mchaffie has made the most of recent spells of good weather by establishing three new lines in...

Crux pitch on the Voie Petit - 8b  © Adam Long
Crux pitch on the Voie Petit - 8b  © Adam Long

Article Perfect Partners #4 - James McHaffie and Ben Bransby

In this series of articles, Tom Ripley interviews some well-known climbing partnerships to dig up their...

James McHaffie making the first ascent of his yet unnamed E9 on Dinas Mot  © Tim Neill
James McHaffie making the first ascent of his yet unnamed E9 on Dinas Mot  © Tim Neill

News New E9 7a for McHaffie on Dinas Mot - Dark Religion

James McHaffie has continued his proactive streak of new-routing by making the first ascent of what could be...

Ryan on Divided Years  © DMM Instagram
Ryan on Divided Years  © DMM Instagram

Newsflash Divided Years (E8/9) Ground Up - McHaffie & Pasquill

DMM have just tweeted that both James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill have yesterday managed ground-up...

James McHaffie back on the ground enjoying a beer after soloing 100 Lakeland Extremes in a day.  © Henry Iddon
James McHaffie back on the ground enjoying a beer after soloing 100 Lakeland Extremes in a day.  © Henry Iddon

Interview James McHaffie on his 100 Lakes Extremes in a Day

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu  © Alun Hughes
Clogwyn Du'r Arddu  © Alun Hughes

Features Return to Indian Face by James McHaffie

James McHaffie on 'The Meltdown' - The UK's hardest slab route, and possibly 9a  © Jack Geldard
James McHaffie on 'The Meltdown' - The UK's hardest slab route, and possibly 9a  © Jack Geldard

News James McHaffie Climbs 'The Meltdown' - 9a Slab?

James McHaffie onsighting Isis is Angry (E7), on Yellow Walls, Gogarth  © Jack Geldard -  Editor - UKC
James McHaffie onsighting Isis is Angry (E7), on Yellow Walls, Gogarth  © Jack Geldard -  Editor - UKC

Climbing Skills Improve Your Climbing By James McHaffie


Latest Reviews for James's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

More heel hooking in the Boreal Ninja  © UKC Gear

Boreal Ninja

As the first ever slip lasted rock shoe, the original Ninja was revolutionary in its time. The modern version stands on its own two feet as a specialist bouldering and indoor/competition shoe, says Rob Greenwood - and it's a lot of fun to climb in.

Boreal Saurus thumbnail  © Dan Bailey
Boreal Saurus thumbnail  © Dan Bailey

Boreal Saurus Running Shoe

While the Saurus is more than capable on the hills, this a trail shoe that you can also comfortably take onto more urban ground, says Dan Bailey

A snug heel is ideal for tricky heel hooks  © UKC Gear
A snug heel is ideal for tricky heel hooks  © UKC Gear

Boreal Satori

The Boreal Satori's mid-range flex makes it a great shoe for steep bouldering and sport climbing, says Theo Moore

Burbage North  © UKC Gear
Burbage North  © UKC Gear

Boreal Synergy

A soft, down-turned, asymmetric shoe from Boreal's high-end Trilogy range, the Synergy excels at bouldering - whether that be on steep limestone,...

Women's all-round harnesses group test  © UKC Gear
Women's all-round harnesses group test  © UKC Gear

Women's All-Round Harnesses

Many climbers are all-rounders, so there's a need for harnesses that can do a bit of everything too. We look at nine...

Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear
Entries within the Performance Rock Shoe Group Test  © UKC Gear

Performance Rock Shoes

'Performance' is a huge category, so with UK sport climbing in mind we've narrowed the focus of this review to down-turned, supportive...

Half ropes montage  © UKC Gear
Half ropes montage  © UKC Gear

Half Ropes for UK Trad

Over the last few months the UKC Test Team have been putting six pairs of half ropes through their paces. Though they're all good, we...


Latest News from James's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

BetaStick Evo 1  © Beta Climbing Designs

Betastick Evo, Chalk and Tape

The BetaStick Evo helps you clip those out of reach bolts, the chalk helps you hold on to the rock and the tape keeps you holding on for longer!

SNAP Guts  © SNAP
SNAP Guts  © SNAP

SNAP Guts Crash Pad

Thanks to its intelligent Air Technology this 'smooth but tough' crash-pad is perfectly adapted to both short and high falls. It offers improved security and resilience, as it combines more resistant materials with greater comfort on landing. It can be folded in...

Boreal Arwa  © Boreal
Boreal Arwa  © Boreal

Boreal Mountain Boots - Triglav / Nelion / Arwa

Spring 2019 sees the launch of new family of alpine mountaineering boots from Boreal. The three new models comprise of Arwa, Triglav and Nelion, all of which have been given radical designs to take advantage of the very latest high-tech...

Friendly Foot thumbnail  © Friendly Foot
Friendly Foot thumbnail  © Friendly Foot

Friendly Foot Shoe Spray Disinfectant and Deodoriser

Finally a shoe deodorizer spray that is friendly to your feet , skin and the environment, yet still...

Boreal Saurus Running Shoe

Saurus is an all new trail running shoe which excels on off-road footpaths and routes which feature a mix of hard paved surfaces...

ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC
ispo 2019 Climbing Hardware  © UKC

ISPO 2019 - New Climbing Hardware Roundup

The annual ISPO trade show, which brings the world's outdoor industry together under one roof (or a series of...

The new Boreal Ninja performance slipper

The original Ninja slipper was legendary, offering a huge step up in performance. The latest incarnation is set to...