UKC

The Ticklist #25 Sport, Trad and Boulder Round-up

9a+ for Laura Rogora

Laura Rogora has climbed her third 9a+ with an ascent of Terapia d'urto in Arco, Italy. The route links the cruxes of two routes - L'arciere (8c) and Goosfraba (8c+). This was her 3rd 9a+ after climbing Pure Dreaming Plus and The Bow last year. In July 2020, she also became the second woman to climb 9b with her ascent of Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total at Rodellar.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Laura (@laura.rogora) 

Rhoslyn Frugtniet climbs Tuppence 8b

Rhoslyn Frugtniet has climbed the desperately fingery and technical Tuppence (8b) at Anstey's Cove, Devon. Writing on her Instagram, she said:

'When I first tried it ~3 years ago I couldn't do a single move, so it's nice to see the progress. I actually never thought I'd do it, having to use completely different beta to most being a bit shorter.'

In 2019, Rhoslyn climbed her hardest route with an ascent of Death Star (8c) in Cheddar Gorge. Last year she ticked another hard testpiece at Anstey's with an ascent of Poppy (8b+/8c).

If you click right on the Instagram post below, you can see a video of Rhoslyn on the route:

VIDEO: Nico Pelorson on the 2nd ascent of Soudain Seul (Font 8C+/9A)

Two weeks ago, we reported that 23-year-old Nico Pelorson had made the second ascent of Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul in Fontainebleau. Lorenzi suggested Font 9A and Pelorson suggested it may be close to Font 8C+, but only time will tell. Mellow have released a video of Pelorson climbing the problem:

James McHaffie ticks the Rainbow Slab

An ascent of DOA E6 6c this week meant that James McHaffie has completed every route on the Rainbow Slab as listed in the Llanberis Slate guidebook. The slab boasts about a dozen trad lines up to E7 and an 8b+ sport route, Johnny Dawes's The Very Big and The Very Small.

James told his sponsor, DMM: "I'd have to have been going well to onsight DOA. Definitely felt more E7 than E6. The crux involves a thumb sprag to get established on a high rockover. Those eighties boys were certainly brave. The first route I'd done on the Rainbow Slab was in 1997 but over the last few years I became keen to do them all, as it is such unique climbing."

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by DMM (@dmm_wales)


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James is a full time climbing instructor and coach. You can book him via his website.

James's Athlete Page 14 posts

At the age of 19, Laura Rogora is already one of the most accomplished climbers in the world. In 2020, she became the second woman to tick 9b with her ascent of Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total in...

Laura's Athlete Page 9 posts 1 video



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