Matt Helliker


About

© Matt Helliker

Chamonix, United Kingdom
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Matt’s life has been shaped by mountains and coastlines, from the sea cliffs of Great Britain to Scotland's winter mountains, the European Alps to the Greater Ranges of the Himalayas, South America and Alaska. Matt has become one of the UK’s most talented and accomplished alpinists, climber and IFMGA mountain guides of his generation, with a long list of hard and impressive first and repeat ascents to his credit. 

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Latest News & Articles

News posts and Articles featuring Matt

Matt following the first pitch of steeper terrain on Beyond Reason.  © Pete Whittaker

News New Routes on Aiguille des Pélerins and Tour Ronde by Bracey, Helliker & Whittaker

Matt Helliker, Jon Bracey and Pete Whittaker recently teamed up to make two first ascents in the Mont Blanc Massif, Beyond Reason ED V 5+/5c (M6+/R) 550m on the Aiguille des Pélerins as a three and another on the NW shoulder of the Tour Ronde e...

Matt Helliker on The Big Issue E9 6c.  © Stefan Morris
Matt Helliker on The Big Issue E9 6c.  © Stefan Morris

News The Big Issue E9 6c by Matt Helliker

Matt Helliker has headpointed John Dunne's The Big Issue E9 6c at Bosherston Head, Pembroke. Matt chose to place the gear on lead with the 20+ year old peg tied off.

Pitch 2 of the Camilotto Pellisier.  © John Bunney
Pitch 2 of the Camilotto Pellisier.  © John Bunney

News Camilotto Pellisier (8a/+) by Helliker and Twyford

Matt Helliker and Emma Twyford have freed the 11-pitch Dolomites classic, the Camilotto Pellisier (8a/+) on the Cima Grande. Initially an aid route opened by Mauro and Minuzzo in 1967, the route eventually became a popular free climb after...

Matt on the final pitch pulling steep moves on some funky unconsolidated snow ice.   © Jon Bracey
Matt on the final pitch pulling steep moves on some funky unconsolidated snow ice.   © Jon Bracey

News New Mixed Line on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey by Helliker and Bracey

Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey have established a new mixed line, "Past Da Pesto" (M7, 450m)...

Matt on the second crux pitch of Dark Angel.  © Nick Bullock
Matt on the second crux pitch of Dark Angel.  © Nick Bullock

News Dark Angel VII/8 First Ascent by Helliker, Bullock & Whittaker

Making the most of Scotland's prime winter conditions at the moment, a strong trio comprising...

Matt and Roz look over the project   © Paul Twomey
Matt and Roz look over the project   © Paul Twomey

News Ramp Super Challenge by Helliker and Frugtniet

On 13th June, Matt Helliker and Rhoslyn Frugtniet completed the first ascent of the Ramp "Super" Challenge on Avon...

Approaching the Tour Ronde with Grand Capucin ahead  © Matt Helliker
Approaching the Tour Ronde with Grand Capucin ahead  © Matt Helliker

News Rotatornator: New Route on Tour Ronde by Helliker and Macdonald

British Mountain Guides Matt Helliker and Stuart Macdonald have added a new 6-pitch, 250m line to the...

Pitch one, Hangover  © Jon Bracey
Pitch one, Hangover  © Jon Bracey

News New Year Hangover for Helliker and Bracey on the Tour Ronde

Jon Bracey tops out on the pillar, 4050m  © Matt Helliker
Jon Bracey tops out on the pillar, 4050m  © Matt Helliker

News Bracey and Helliker: New Route on East Face of Mt Maudit

Matt Helliker and Nick Bullock back at the skis after the descent (c) Nick Bullock
Matt Helliker and Nick Bullock back at the skis after the descent (c) Nick Bullock

News Bullock and Helliker: Night Fever on the Tour Ronde West Wall

Matt Helliker on the crux pitch 5 of 'Chancer' (c) Jon Bracey  © Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey
Matt Helliker on the crux pitch 5 of 'Chancer' (c) Jon Bracey  © Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey

News Bracey and Helliker Climb Possible New Route - Tour Ronde

Matt Helliker putting the Osprey Mutant 28 through its paces  © Matt Helliker Collection
Matt Helliker putting the Osprey Mutant 28 through its paces  © Matt Helliker Collection

Product News Matt Helliker talks about the Osprey Mutant Pack

Team Psyche!  © Jon Bracey
Team Psyche!  © Jon Bracey

News Helliker & Bracey Climb FA of Supercouloir de Peuterey 'Integral'

Matt Eyeing up the Pitch, ready for some tricky footless M6  © Bracey/Helliker Collection
Matt Eyeing up the Pitch, ready for some tricky footless M6  © Bracey/Helliker Collection

News Major New Route for Bracey and Helliker

Matt Helliker involved in loose mixed high up in the fault line  © Jon Bracey
Matt Helliker involved in loose mixed high up in the fault line  © Jon Bracey

News Hard Grandes Jorasses for Bracey and Helliker

Alpinist 4 - from the Annapurna Expedition Blog  © Alpinist / Annapurna Expedition Blog
Alpinist 4 - from the Annapurna Expedition Blog  © Alpinist / Annapurna Expedition Blog

News Bullock, Helliker and Benson - Round II on Annapurna III

Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker  © Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker
Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker  © Jon Bracey and Matt Helliker

News Bracey and Helliker on Alaska's Moose's Tooth

Nick Bullock on his new route  © Matt Helliker
Nick Bullock on his new route  © Matt Helliker

News Bullock & Helliker climb New Route in the Alps

Nick Bullock  © Nick Carter
Nick Bullock  © Nick Carter

News Death or Glory for Bullock and Helliker


Latest Reviews for Matt's Sponsors

Reviews from the UKC editorial team

It's a refined and modern take on the traditional leather boot...  © Dan Bailey

Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX

A traditional leather mountain boot with modern refinements, Tom Ripley thinks the updated Mont Blanc Pro GTX would be a good choice for any mountaineer looking for a solid B3 boot that can be used from winter hill walking through to technical ...

Bombproof shells group test  © UKC Gear
Bombproof shells group test  © UKC Gear

Bombproof Winter Mountain Shells

What's the ideal shell for Scottish winter climbing and gnarly hill walks? A beefy and protective one! Here we review tough technical jackets from 12 leading manufacturers.

Ascensionist montage  © John McKenna
Ascensionist montage  © John McKenna

Patagonia Ascensionist Jacket

It's not built for serious Scottish winter abuse, but for sweaty mountain activities, from ski touring and mountaineering to hillwalking, the lightweight Ascensionist shell would be a big hit, reckons John McKenna.

2am on the Cuillin Ridge  © Dan Bailey
2am on the Cuillin Ridge  © Dan Bailey

Compact Headtorches

Modern front-mounted headtorches are neat and lightweight, yet pack enough power for most needs. Here we look in depth at five...

Camalot C4 montage  © Dan Bailey
Camalot C4 montage  © Dan Bailey

Black Diamond Camalot C4

Martin McKenna was a fan of the previous version of the Camalot, so how does he rate the recent updates?

LV shoes group test  © UKC Gear
LV shoes group test  © UKC Gear

Performance Rock Shoes - Women's/LV Fit

In this group test we compare nine pairs of performance shoes with a women's / low volume fit. How did they all do...?

Women's crag clothing BD montage  © Miriam Dobson
Women's crag clothing BD montage  © Miriam Dobson

Black Diamond Crag Clothes for Women

From the tough, stretchy Forged Denim Pants to a light softshell jacket, Kate Dean puts a selection of Black Diamond's...


Latest News from Matt's Sponsors

Annoucements direct from manufacturers

ISPO 2020 Climbing Gear  © UKC

ISPO 2020 - New Climbing Gear

We spent earlier this week catching up with brands at the big winter gearfest: ISPO. Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below...

A sensitive, flexible shoe enables maximum contact on sloping footholds  © Robbie Phillips
A sensitive, flexible shoe enables maximum contact on sloping footholds  © Robbie Phillips

Scarpa Booster

The Booster is the newest climbing shoe to be introduced to the Scarpa Spring Summer 2020 climbing range. It follows on from the old classic Booster S with some exciting new developments.

ISPO 2020 Footwear  © UKC
ISPO 2020 Footwear  © UKC

ISPO 2020 - New Footwear

We spent earlier this week catching up with brands at the big winter gearfest: ISPO. Despite the fact the show was quieter than usual, this in no way detracted from the quality of the clobber on show and hitting the shops in the near future. Below is a roundup...

Scarpa Veloce

The Veloce offers comfort and technology with special focus on indoor climbing. A slightly downturned shape with an extra spacy toe box is...

Climbers  © Patagonia
Climbers  © Patagonia

Patagonia - Shell, Yeah!

Patagonia is the first in the industry to make all shells with recycled materials and sew them all in a Fair Trade Certified...

Mont Blanc Pro  © Scarpa
Mont Blanc Pro  © Scarpa

Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX

The Mt Blanc Pro is a warm and durable boot designed for technical mountaineering and winter climbing. The new Mt Blanc Pro is...

Phantom Tech  © Scarpa
Phantom Tech  © Scarpa

Scarpa Phantom Tech

The Phantom Tech is a super light, technically precise, gaitered boot for cold weather mountaineering and ice climbing. The new...

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