Shauna Coxsey returned to form at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck, Austria this weekend - winning her fourth Gold of the season out of the five rounds so far and advancing her lead in the rankings by over 100 points, putting her in a strong position for the overall title with just two rounds to go.
The GB Team performed well as a whole, with a notable achievement for Nathan Phillips, who qualified in 2nd place for the semi-finals in a round which proved tough for even the most seasoned competitors. Leah Crane finished 15th, Michaela Tracy 17th and Tara Hayes 43rd in her first World Cup of the season. Dave Barrans finished in a commendable 12th place - his best result of the season so far. Nathan ended the semi-final round in 17th, ahead of Tyler Landman in 33rd and Billy Ridal in 41st out of a large field of over 100 competitors.
With the addition of Megan Mascarenas (USA) and Janja Garnbret (SLO) competing in this round, the women's final arguably consisted of the strongest lineup of climbers so far, with former overall World Cup winners Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Anna Stöhr (AUT) also in the running. Following her 9th place in Mumbai last weekend - where hot and humid conditions proved challenging - Shauna more than made up for the slight blip in her winning streak, flashing three of the four problems with ease. 17 year-old Janja and 18 year-old Miho Nonaka (JPN) - winner in Mumbai - weren't too far behind in 2nd and 3rd place, with Janja requiring just two more attempts than Shauna to climb all four problems and Miho five more attempts. Megan Mascarenas appeared to be Shauna's main competition up until the third boulder - having smoothly flashed the first two - until she failed to complete the final two problems.
In the men's final, Jongwon Chon (KOR) stunned the crowd by completing three out of four boulders in an incredibly tough round. Winner in Mumbai, Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), came 2nd with two problems completed and Sean McColl (CAN) managed third place with just one top. Triple dynos, technical slabs and tricky volumes set the tone of a round requiring exceptional balance and coordination. Tomoa currently leads the men's overall ranking by a mere nine points, ahead of Kokoro Fujii (JPN) and Alexey Rubtsov (RUS).
The next round is in Vail, Colorado on 11th/12th June.
IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2016
Boulder Men
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi-Final | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Jongwon Chon | KOR | 4t8 4b7 | 3t4 3b4 |
2 | Tomoa Narasaki | JPN | 2t2 4b5 | 2t9 4b13 |
3 | Sean McColl | CAN | 4t5 4b5 | 1t3 2b4 |
4 | Rolands Rugens | LAT | 2t2 4b6 | 1t3 2b8 |
5 | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov | RUS | 3t5 4b7 | 0t 2b10 |
6 | Martin Stranik | CZE | 2t2 4b4 | 0t 0b |
7 | Manuel Cornu | FRA | 2t3 4b5 | |
8 | Thomas Caleyron | FRA | 2t4 3b6 | |
9 | Mickael Mawem | FRA | 2t4 3b8 | |
10 | Kokoro Fujii | JPN | 2t5 4b5 | |
11 | Alban Levier | FRA | 2t5 4b7 | |
12 | Dave Barrans | GBR | 2t5 3b3 | |
13 | Stefan Scarperi | ITA | 2t6 4b9 | |
14 | Jernej Kruder | SLO | 1t1 4b4 | |
15 | Gabriele Moroni | ITA | 1t1 4b5 | |
16 | Aleksei Rubtsov | RUS | 1t1 4b10 | |
17 | Nathan Phillips | GBR | 1t1 3b3 | |
17 | Michael Piccolruaz | ITA | 1t1 3b3 | |
19 | Kipras Baltrunas | LTU | 1t1 2b2 | |
20 | Andre Difelice | CAN | 1t2 4b7 | |
33 | Tyler Landman | GBR | Qual: 4t5 5b6 | |
41 | Billy Ridal | GBR | Qual: 1t1 3b7 |
Boulder Women
Rank | Name | Nation | Semi-Final | Final |
---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Shauna Coxsey | GBR | 4t8 4b8 | 4t8 4b8 |
2 | Janja Garnbret | SLO | 4t7 4b7 | 4t10 4b9 |
3 | Miho Nonaka | JPN | 4t6 4b5 | 4t13 4b10 |
4 | Megan Mascarenas | USA | 4t6 4b6 | 2t2 3b3 |
5 | Anna Stöhr | AUT | 4t8 4b8 | 2t11 4b8 |
6 | Akiyo Noguchi | JPN | 4t4 4b4 | 1t3 2b2 |
7 | Sol Sa | KOR | 4t6 4b6 | 0t 3b3 |
8 | Melissa Le Neve | FRA | 3t3 4b4 | |
9 | Staša Gejo | SRB | 3t4 4b5 | |
10 | Jessica Pilz | AUT | 3t7 4b8 | |
11 | Katharina Posch | AUT | 3t8 3b7 | |
12 | Monika Retschy | GER | 3t10 4b9 | |
13 | Berit Schwaiger | AUT | 2t2 4b6 | |
13 | Petra Klingler | SUI | 2t2 4b6 | |
15 | Leah Crane | GBR | 2t4 4b5 | |
16 | Katharina Saurwein | AUT | 2t4 4b7 | |
17 | Michaela Tracy | GBR | 2t5 4b7 | |
18 | Tjasa Slemensek | SLO | 2t7 3b9 | |
19 | Alannah Yip | CAN | 1t1 4b5 | |
20 | Ekaterina Kipriianova | RUS | 1t3 4b12 | |
20 | Olaf Herrenkind | GER | 1t3 4b12 | |
43 | Tara Hayes | GBR | Qual: 2t3 4b8 |
Watch the highlights from the finals below:
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