UKC

IFSC Boulder World Cup Chongqing: Report

© IFSC/Sasha Onil

Last weekend saw the third round of the IFSC Boulder World Cup take place in Chongqing, China. In sweltering conditions, Britain's Shauna Coxsey took Gold for the third time in a row this season (fourth if you include her win at the final round of 2015 in Munich).

Women's Podium: Chongqing  © IFSC/Sasha Onil
Women's Podium: Chongqing
© IFSC/Sasha Onil

Michaela Tracy finished an excellent 10th place, securing her a current overall ranking of 6th place. Tyler Landman and Leah Crane finished 15th and 17th respectively after making the semi-finals. The GB Team are currently ranked 2nd overall in the team ranking - the highest position that the team has ever reached.

The Japanese team were on top form in this event, with Akiyo Noguchi, Miho Nonaka and Mei Kotake taking 2nd, 3rd and 4th place respectively behind Shauna.

Leah Crane Competing in Chongqing  © IFSC/Sasha Onil
Leah Crane Competing in Chongqing
© IFSC/Sasha Onil

Tomoa Narasaki, also of Japan, took Gold in the men's event ahead of Germany's Jan Hojer - who had failed to make finals in the previous two rounds. 2015 World Cup winner Chon Jongwon of Korea placed third.

The next round will be held in Navi Mumbai, India on 14th/15th May, where Shauna and Leah will be flying the flag once again for Great Britain.

IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B, S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2016

WOMENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Shauna Coxsey GBR 3t3 4b4 3t7 4b8
2 Akiyo Noguchi JPN 2t3 4b5 3t12 4b13
3 Miho Nonaka JPN 2t3 4b8 1t3 2b4
4 Mei Kotake JPN 2t4 2b2 1t6 2b6
5 Karoline Sinnhuber AUT 2t4 4b7 0t 2b5
6 Monika Retschy GER 2t4 3b3 0t 2b6
7 Melissa Le Neve FRA 1t1 4b5
8 Chloe Caulier BEL 1t1 3b3
9 Fanny Gibert FRA 1t1 3b7
10 Michaela Tracy GBR 1t2 4b4
11 Clementine Kaiser FRA 1t2 3b4
12 Sierra Blair-Coyle USA 1t2 2b2
13 Petra Klingler SUI 1t3 4b7
14 Aya Onoe JPN 1t3 4b12
15 Berit Schwaiger AUT 1t4 4b7
16 Sol Sa KOR 1t5 3b7
17 Leah Crane GBR 0t 4b4
18 Katharina Saurwein AUT 0t 4b9
19 Yuka Kobayashi JPN 0t 4b12
20 Hung Ying Lee TPE 0t 3b5
Full results

MENs bouldering

Rank Name Nation Semi's Final
1 Tomoa Narasaki JPN 2t2 3b4 3t8 3b4
2 Jan Hojer GER 2t3 3b5 2t3 4b13
3 Jongwon Chon KOR 3t9 3b6 2t5 4b15
4 Kokoro Fujii JPN 2t5 3b12 2t13 4b14
5 Aleksei Rubtsov RUS 3t13 3b8 1t8 3b6
6 Jorg Verhoeven NED 3t10 3b7 0t 2b2
7 Sean McColl CAN 2t6 3b8
8 Sergii Topishko UKR 2t8 3b8
9 Rustam Gelmanov RUS 2t11 3b12
10 Jeremy Bonder FRA 1t1 3b14
11 Dmitrii Sharafutdinov RUS 1t1 2b8
12 Jernej Kruder SLO 1t4 3b8
13 Tsukuru Hori JPN 1t4 3b9
14 Alban Levier FRA 1t5 3b8
15 Tyler Landman GBR 0t 3b11
16 Baptiste Ometz SUI 0t 3b16
17 Rolands Rugens LAT 0t 2b4
18 Rei Sugimoto JPN 0t 2b8
19 Michael Piccolruaz ITA 0t 2b9
20 Yuji Fujiwaki JPN 0t 2b12
Full results

Watch the semi-final and final replays below:


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Hailing from Scottsdale, Arizona, 25-year-old Sierra Blair-Coyle has been competing professionally since the age of 14.  Voted one of the Top 99 Most Outstanding Women of 2015 by AskMen, she has also been a World Cup...

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6 May, 2016
Great effort by Team GB. Seems a shame the talented Dave Barrans hasn't made it to the Asian events though. Sure he could have upped our score even more. According to the IFSC web site though we're now ranked third, behind Japan (1) and France (2), for bouldering this year. Good to see Akiyo climbing well again and giving Shauna some real competition. Great to see Shauna winning but it becomes a bit boring to watch if she does it too easily. Might be tougher in Vail with competition from Megan Mascarenas and Alex Puccio and other strong US women.
6 May, 2016
Is this the first time a Japanese man has won? They seem to have some very strong climbers but I can't think of any winning before.
7 May, 2016
Without checking I know that Tsukuru Hori has won at least 1 gold - the WC in Canmore a few years ago saw a double gold for Japan with Akiyo and Tsukuru. Sachi Amma has of course won a few golds in lead as did Yuji years ago.
7 May, 2016
Nice one. Thanks Graeme.
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