American climber Paige Claassen has climbed her first 9a: Shadowboxing in Rifle, Colorado. The route was first climbed by Jonathan Siegrist in 2011, who described the route as 'a sea of underclings up a stunning 45-metre wall.'
Claassen always seems to have had an affinity with the style of climbing at Rifle where she climbed her first 5.13, The Beast (7c+), and her first 5.14, Zulu (8b+). She wrote on her Instagram: 'It's always exciting to complete a line I'm proud of in this quirky little canyon that allows so much laziness on the approach and demands so much try hard on the wall. Shadowboxing is 90% underclings, 10% micro crimps, and 100% delicate feet, so it's a 200% route.'
Training specifically for the route, Claassen did weekly bicep curls to enable her to recover on the undercling rests and 'power through the undercling cruxes.' In total, she attempted the route around twelve times, over six weeks during the short windows when the route wasn't in the sun.
Claassen has climbed a number of stunning routes in the high 8's, including Just Do It (8c+) at Smith Rock, Odin's Eye (8c+) at Flatanger and Necessary Evil (8c+) at Virgin River Gorge.
Below is a video of her climbing Groove Train (8c) on Australia's Taipan Wall:
Comments
So impressive. How many US women have climbed this grade out of interest?
Margo
Ashima
Can’t think of any more
Sasha did Pure Imagination at the Red River Gorge
Michaela Kirsch as well
The Golden Ticket and the iconic Necessary Evil.
8c+ in the guidebook. I think it was initially given 9a.