James Squire has climbed Giuliano Cameroni's Power of Now (f8C) (Font 8C) in a single session. The stunning line in Magic Wood, Switzerland, climbs through a 60-degree roof and features huge, powerful moves.
Despite lockdown, James has already had a successful year. In June, he made the first ascent of Ambition (f8C), a Font 8C at Biblins Cave. At the start of his trip to Switzerland, he was very tired and the pace of a climbing trip helped him to recover: 'I had been climbing way too much at Biblins Cave and eating loads of chicken and rice…'
Expecting Power of Now to suit his climbing style, James was excited to give it some attention: 'I was thinking it would take a few sessions to work out the moves on this trip and then I would return on another trip to finish the problem. I had watched Giuliano's video a few times so I could try his beta and see if it worked for me.'
© James Squire Collection
The problem starts with a tricky backhand press to a crimp in the roof, followed by a jump to an edge. At this point, there are a few setup moves before the final 'superhero' jump to the boulder's lip. James explained how his session unfolded:
'I started by trying the top section off a ladder. I figured I should get the last move wired before trying from the start. I didn't find the last move too bad - I think I used a slightly higher foot than Giuliano which meant I could cut loose on the last move without falling off. It was then a case of trying from the beginning. After about an hour I managed to stick the lower jump move and, on that attempt, I continued to the top! Climbing it in a session was a total surprise!'
James has obviously been in great form for the past couple of years, spending a lot of his time developing new climbs at Biblins Cave and on Dartmoor. In such a strange year, it's impressive that he was able to go to Magic Wood and quickly find form on a different rock type.
James said: 'I just feel very lucky to be able to travel abroad with the current situation.'
This was James' 4th 8C. He has previously climbed two of his own, The World Is Yours (f8C) and Ambition (f8C) at Biblins Cave, and Spray of Light (f8C) in Rocklands.
Below is a video of Giuliano Cameroni on the first ascent of Power of Now:
Comments
Amazing! Amazing problem, and stunning to do 8C in a session. Wtaf, as they say.
Nice good effort, just goes to show the vagaries of grading at the upper end, would wager he wouldn't even come close on a problem like The Rail 8b+ at Bowden Doors, condition dependent and holdless on apearances, Dan Varian who is no slouch projected this for years, The Uk's hardest problem?
Clearly all armchair speculation however I think you are probably right.
Bear in mind Dan's grading was effectively blocked off at 8B+ due to the 'efforts' of the G - he's wrote about this to some extent on the other channel. With this in mind some of his longer projects could well be in a different league - although honestly it'll take someone like James or Aidan going and trying/repeating them to put an reality in that statement.
That is some top notch armchair speculation.