EXCLUSIVE VIDEOS: Team America On The Grit

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Nov/2008
This news story has been read 29,150 times
Visiting American climbers Kevin Jorgeson, Matt Segal and Alex Honnold have had an amazing gritstone trip. They've ticked some classics, shook a few grade myths and pushed gritstone climbing to the limit.

Some (but not all) notable ascents and events:

  • Kevin Jorgeson's ground-up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c) (which was attempted with Ben Bransby, who also came extremely close).
  • Kevin's repeats and possible down-grades of The Promise (E10 or E8) and The Groove (E11 or E8), which grabbed headlines worldwide.
  • Alex Honnold's onsight solo of London Wall (E5 6a), a hard and insecure finger crack (note, an on sight solo of this would equate to something like a hard E7 on sight)
  • Alex's on sight ascent of Master's Edge (E7 6b)
  • Alex's third ascent of The Promise (E10 or E8).
  • Matt, Alex and Kevin's team ascent of End of the Affair (E8 6c)

Interestingly Kevin notes in his blog that:

"I was super impressed with the difficulty and boldness of Equilibrium. After spending over 7 days working it, I still felt nowhere near ready to lead it. For my body, it has the hardest physical moves of anything I tried on the trip, with certain ground fall from the move I ripped my finger open on. To me, it represents E10."

Equilibrium was first climbed by Sheffield strong-man Neil Bentley in February of 2000, and was first top-roped by Ben Moon back in 1993 at a French grade of F8b+. Repeats have been from the super talented Neil Gresham, and man of the moment, James Pearson. In light of recent grading speculation, it is worth noting that James Pearson made a fast ascent of Equilibrium (over four days) aged just 19, and he is, as John Dunne put it, "the real deal".

The Videos:

UKC have a series of three films featuring Alex, Matt and Kevin in action on the grit.

  • Film 1: Kevin (first) then Alex climbing The Promise (E10 or E8)
  • Film 2: Kevin makes the first Ground Up ascent of Parthian Shot (E9 6c)
  • Film 3: Team America climb End of the Affair (E8 6c) (watch out for that no-hands rest!)

We will be publishing Film 2 at 9am tomorrow (Thursday) morning and film 3 at 9am on Friday morning.

Watch the first film - The Promise:

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