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4* thumb
Pegs at bottom of 4th pitch. One is very rusty, the other has a fracture at the back
© Me, Jan 2014
Route: Suicide Wall (E1 5c)
Camera used: GoPro
4*
VOTING: number of votes 2
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We abbed off of these in the summer, backed up with a nut like that. I have never been more terrified... God knows what a fall on to them would do.
Alex the Alex - 28/Feb/14Report
Yeah, we refused to climb on in case one of us fell and shocked them. We attempted to abseil off them, but the bottom peg just started bending when we weighted it. We rang some friends and got them to chuck a rope down for us.
CJoyce - 28/Feb/14Report
bomber
Mark Davies PK - 28/Feb/14Report
The clue's in the name, folks.
To be fair, the peg situation hasn't changed for some time - and it's always been a choice between using a wire for pro, or using the crack as a hold. The pitch is a two-move wonder, but is about as out there as it gets for an E1.
Did it once, ten years ago. Luckily, on-sighted it without the usual faffing. But never again, even as a second: the archetypal FF2 with shock loading.
Martin not maisie - 28/Feb/14Report
I will donate a peg!
Stu Tyrrell - 28/Feb/14Report
Couple of bolts will sort that out, but change the name. Any suggestions?
Sean Kelly - 28/Feb/14Report
If you sit down you can get a cam at the back of the ledge.
Martin Wing - 01/Mar/14Report
no need for pegs at all ...large cam at foot level.... good wires and small cams in crack above ...probably more, if pegs removed.
eggburt1952 - 02/Mar/14Report
Just add a bolt. Safe and less messy. That way it will free up this crack for anyone wanting to use placed protection.
ClanAdventures - 02/Mar/14Report
He's got a side ways number 2 nut.
What's the problem? Bomber Belay that.
r0x0r.wolfo - 25/Apr/14Report
Can confirm that these pegs are still there. My partner took a 3m fall onto these plus a blue offset in the spot the green nut's in, and it held.
myrddinmuse - 09/Oct/16Report
Pegs are still there in the same condition, running the two pitches together is pretty simple and probably best. There is a good gold offset in the position of that nut that doesn't block handholds and a sideways number one below the pegs all properly extended and equalised will negate actually whipping onto the pegs at all and make it as safe as possible :)
dinodinosaur - 01/Apr/19Report
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added February 28 2014.  | Report this photo