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John McCune on a rare ascent of Kerry Gold E4 5c, Valentia Island, Co. Kerry, Ireland.
© dlyonsewing, Jul 2014
Route: Kerry Gold (E4 5c)
Camera used: Cannon Power Shot Pro 1
Date taken: 28th July 2014
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User Comments

Wow! That photograph has made my day.....
Neil Foster - 31/Jul/14
Thanks Neil, and thanks for putting the routes up in the first place. We also did good crack and lost in Juarez. All agreed some of the best sea cliff climbing we have done. Cheers!
dlyonsewing - 31/Jul/14
It is Chris Jackson and John Fleming you really need to thank. It was they who found the place and did the key initial exploration. We just came along for the ride and picked a few tasty morsels they had missed! I'm made up you enjoyed the routes tho'. We've only been waiting 18 years for someone to go and have a look....!
Neil Foster - 31/Jul/14
Yes I cant believe it hasn't got any attention, the climbing is incredible. We weren't sure if we were doing the second ascent of those routes... hopefully the photo will get more climbers from Ireland and further afield psyched to check it out.
dlyonsewing - 31/Jul/14
Wow. I really need to get to Ireland next year!
Duncan Campbell - 31/Jul/14
I remember Neil telling me he was proud of his and Ian's routes there. Now I can see why!
jon - 04/Aug/14
Hi Neil,
we just come back from a trip to the Black Cliff. We also got really good time there climbing couple of routes, so good. The weather was most of the time great, but the sea too rough so we could climb just once from the ground.
We did Abyss, Unknown Legend, Brendan the Navigator, Ramptastic ( the Peg with the sling is not there anymore...hard on the grade) .
We did also MAYBE some new attempts.....from the corner of Abyss.
The climbing follows for some 3 m to the diagonal flake( you can see that on this picture just right), climb this tending rightwards to a horizontal break and then left to the flaky niche coming together with Kerry Gold.
From the 3rd Belay of A Long Day we also climbed a line we couldn't find in the topo. Start the same to the first gear and traverse about 3
metres out onto the lip then climb the headwall trending first right with some long moves then left into the obvious diagonal crack. All the way good gear, steep and pumpy and perfect climbing. We are curious to hear if these lines have already been climbed and if not, we would love to add them to the topo. Thanks for all your hard work developing this wild, outstanding cliff!
Marcin & Aine from Munich
marcinsobi71 - 03/Sep/14
Marcin, I can't imagine those have been climbed before. since the initial exploration of these cliffs 18 years ago I dont think many climbers have visited. I have never heard of any fellow irish climbers visiting. I saw that line leading left from the corner of the abyss, and thought it looked cool. well done. Its a stunning sea cliff, and it deserves a bit more attention. Id like to climb there again, the existing routes we did were very very good.
jpeg - 04/Sep/14
My recommendation for both climbs is E3 5c. Really good climbs BTW.
We called the Route left of Abbys Chowder, the name for the climbing from the corner of The longest Day is The Sail.
Cheers und enjoy that
marcinsobi71 - 09/Sep/14
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added July 30 2014.
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