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Gorrilla Warfare, Ynys Lochtyn
© Lee_Meaden, Apr 2015
Route: Gorilla Warfare (E3 5c)
Climbers: Joe Brooke, Kenny Brewster
Camera used: Iphone 5
Date taken: 25th April 2015
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User Comments

I noticed your comment about the grade of this route. As you realise, grading isn't a precise science and you're obviously perfectly entitled to your opinion. But from this photo, I can see that you've clipped the peg on War Dance as your first runner. On the FA (and the subsequent grade checking ascent by an E6 leader) this peg wasn't there to be clipped and the first bit of gear used on Gorilla Warfare was the peg you've used for your second runner, thereby increasing the seriousness at the start. The peg in War Dance may be removed as there's a Z3 micro-cam placement just above it, but this is very difficult to place on the lead (which is why the peg was retrospectively placed later on by the first ascentionist.) BTW, the grade checker thought Gorilla Warfare was E2 5b, but thought War Dance was E3 rather than E2. So there you go .....
I hope you (all) enjoyed your visit to Ynys Lochtyn in any case.
Dave Williams - 28/Apr/15
Thanks for the comment Dave. Yes, the crag was lovely and it felt quite raw still which was nice. Very similar to some north Cornwall/ Devon crags however the rock was quite unique, especially this route with those blocky features which catch the eye. I was visiting a friend who lives in Llangranog and he mentioned there may be some climbing near him so I chucked my gear in on the off chance. I didn’t have the online PDF guide with me when we went walking around here so when I saw the line of pegs I just jumped on. I havn’t got much experience onsighting that many routes above E1 5b to be honest and after climbing it I guessed it may be around that? I was over the moon/ really surprised when I found out later through the PDF guide/ UKC that it was given E3 5C, it was a goal of mine for the summer to try and onsight that grade! Not sure I’d of been so eager to jump on it had I seen it was given E3 5C before climbing it. Maybe it was me being blissfully naïve that made it feel soft? I don’t remember coming across a 5C move though? Regardless, it was a nice route and a memorable crag. I’ll be back, with guide in hand, to try some more lines!
Lee_Meaden - 28/Apr/15
Pegs on a sea cliff!?! Tut tut!!
The Pylon King - 28/Apr/15
Terrible Mark. 'Half a rusty job Harry'. Anyone got a drill?
Doug Kerr - 29/Apr/15
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added April 28 2015.
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