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Scary Monsters Topo
© JohnHartley, Sep 2021
Route: Scary Monsters (E5 6a)
Camera used: HUAWEI LYA-L09
Date taken: 17th September 2021
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User Comments

First ascent went directly to the left-hand peg and nut. Then moved immediately right to the knifeblade. Crux is using small undercut left of right-hand knifeblade to move up in to finishing groove with no more gear until Assegai. The line you show moves up and right higher and is harder and probably better and has been done several times. It's worth knowing the historical context of the climb and it's newer neighbour Not Scary. When l made the first ascent of Scary Monsters l looked at starting as for Not Scary. The first peg was not placeable and the peg in the final groove
of Scary Monsters also did not exist. The only placement to protect Not Scary was the middle knifeblade level with the left-hand peg on the direct line at the top of the brown streak, which is itself unreachable from Not Scary. The top peg exists because someone smashed a seam in to oblivion to make it work long after my first ascent. The lower first peg on Not Scary was also added later and is not just cemented but is in a drilled hole. There were no placements for pegs whatsoever. It's a shame seeing people refer to Scary Monster as an eliminate. To climb the line known as Not Scary before the rock was damaged would of meant you only had the one middle knifeblade on the whole route. That's why no one climbed it prior to the drilling and zealous use of a hammer to create the top peg placement (which completely altered the runout finish of my route). I will post some FA photos at some point. Great to see folks climbing the original overall line. As noted when l remember l will post some photos of the first ascent. I also have some of the 2nd ascent of Doubting in 1985 so l will get them up also. Cheers.
Owain Jones - 18/Sep/21
Thanks for the info! It's interesting to hear about where the line originally went and how they have changed with the addition of pegs. The top peg in the groove that you were referring to has now been removed so the run out to assegai still exists (although its possible to place some size 0 and 2 RPs near by). Personally I think that these two lines in the picture are now the most obvious ways up that bit of rock, although I will have a look at the original lower move right next time I go. The dynamic move up and right from the peg is fantastic and worth doing in itself! Would be really interested to see those photos. Cheers, John
JohnHartley - 22/Sep/21
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This picture is copyright. If you want to reproduce or otherwise re-use it, please email the photographer direct via their user profile. Photo added September 17 2021.
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