User Comments
You mean the red ones or the green ones have been chopped ? Why ? By whom ?
JTM - 29/Jul/24
Bolts were chopped in 2020 by some guy called Pete Harris as he felt they were too close to the adjacent E3, I wouldn't agree with this as they're around the other side of the arete. Bold run out with ground fall potential but on pretty easy terrain.
ChossChampion - 29/Jul/24
From Pete Harrison's 2018 logbook entry....
'Logging this as a note to subsequent climbers - bolts 5 and 6 on the first pitch of Tan y Ddraig are currently missing. We climbed the neighbouring Brown/Davies adventurous trad route 'Hamadryad' yesterday, and found two bolts on Tan y Ddraig were clippable (and were clipped!) from the first pitch of Hamadryad. This doesn't completely alter the character of the pitch but it does alter this slightly bold pitch and goes against the well-established principle of sport routes not impacting on neighbouring trad routes wherever possible. It's entirely straightforward to move the two bolts of Tan y Ddraig by 1.5m to the right without altering any of the difficulty, line of the climb, or effort to clip them - there are bomber footholds and handholds on that part of the pitch. This would mean they weren't clippable from Hamadryad. So I've been back by myself today and removed bolts 5 and 6. The hangers, nuts and washers have been left at the base of the route. This is in no way any kind of slight toward the FA - I'm respectful and appreciative of ILJ's excellent routes in Twll Mawr, including Tan y Ddraig, and am well aware how much effort goes into establishing them.'
IF ANYONE WANTS TO MOVE / REPLACE THE BOLTS THAT WOULD BE APPRECIATED BY MYSELF AS THE FIRST ASCENCIONIST AND BY THOSE WHO WANT TO ENJOY 'Tân y Ddraig' AS A SPORT ROUTE....
THANKS
IAN LLOYD-JONES
Sl@te Head - 29/Jul/24
'Logging this as a note to subsequent climbers - bolts 5 and 6 on the first pitch of Tan y Ddraig are currently missing. We climbed the neighbouring Brown/Davies adventurous trad route 'Hamadryad' yesterday, and found two bolts on Tan y Ddraig were clippable (and were clipped!) from the first pitch of Hamadryad. This doesn't completely alter the character of the pitch but it does alter this slightly bold pitch and goes against the well-established principle of sport routes not impacting on neighbouring trad routes wherever possible. It's entirely straightforward to move the two bolts of Tan y Ddraig by 1.5m to the right without altering any of the difficulty, line of the climb, or effort to clip them - there are bomber footholds and handholds on that part of the pitch. This would mean they weren't clippable from Hamadryad. So I've been back by myself today and removed bolts 5 and 6. The hangers, nuts and washers have been left at the base of the route. This is in no way any kind of slight toward the FA - I'm respectful and appreciative of ILJ's excellent routes in Twll Mawr, including Tan y Ddraig, and am well aware how much effort goes into establishing them.'
IF ANYONE WANTS TO MOVE / REPLACE THE BOLTS THAT WOULD BE APPRECIATED BY MYSELF AS THE FIRST ASCENCIONIST AND BY THOSE WHO WANT TO ENJOY 'Tân y Ddraig' AS A SPORT ROUTE....
THANKS
IAN LLOYD-JONES