The Calanques National Park, stretching between Marseille and Cassis, is a world-class climbing destination. With dramatic limestone cliffs plunging into the Mediterranean, it offers a mix of single-pitch, multi-pitch, and deep-water solo routes, all with breathtaking views.
Situated within an hour's drive from Marseille's city centre, these cliffs have been a climbing paradise for over a century, with their towering limestone walls attracting adventurers since the early 20th century. Initially explored by mountaineers from Marseille, the area became a training ground for legendary climbers like Gaston Rébuffat, who later made history in the Alps. In the post-war years, climbers pioneered bold multi-pitch routes using traditional gear, before the sport climbing revolution of the 1980s introduced bolted lines and harder grades. Today, the Calanques blend history and modern climbing, offering everything from classic adventure routes to cutting-edge sport climbs.
The Climbing
Climbing in the Calanques is defined by its towering limestone cliffs, and is best known for its big multi-pitch routes, often requiring long walk-ins and committing abseils to access the climbs. Most routes are partially bolted, and a small rack of nuts, quickdraws, and slings is usually enough for protection. Individual pitches can be long, so it is recommended that you carry at least 15 quickdraws. Be aware that some lines require full trad gear, so always check the route requirements before setting off. When it comes to accessing sea cliffs, a pair of 60m half ropes is ideal for long abseils, but an 80m single can work for many routes. Individual sectors are generally divided into three main regions, each accessible from different entry points:
With thousands of routes spread across the Calanques, choosing where to start can feel overwhelming. Many classics are in the lower grades and, as expected, exceedingly polished. This however does not detract from the stunning positions to be gained from these climbs. Here are some of my personal highlights:
La Saphir (5a) – 150 meters, partially bolted
© Amanda Vestergaard
La Saphir is one of the most celebrated moderate multi-pitch routes in the Calanques, offering an unforgettable climb above the turquoise waters of En-Vau. Following a beautiful crack system on good rock, the route offers seaside exposure at a relatively moderate grade, and makes for a great first climb of your trip.
La Calanque (5a) – 100 meters, fully bolted
La Calanque is a classic 5c multi-pitch route in En-Vau, with amazing exposure over the sea. The route follows solid limestone with pockets, cracks, and slabby sections, and you can expect a mix of technical footwork and enjoyable vertical climbing. The approach is an adventure in itself, with an airy traverse along a shelf 20 meters above the sea. Roping up is recommended, and bolts are in place to protect the most hairy sections.
Arête de Marseille (5c) – 200 meters, partially bolted
The Arête de Marseille is one of the Calanque's super classics. This ridge ascent leads to the summit of La Grande Candelle, from where you will get breathtaking views of the rest of the Calanques. The route can be reached with just a short walk in, and is therefore often busy and very polished. It is, however, well worth the queues and slippy rock. One of the highlights is the thrilling gap you'll need to bridge between pitch one and two, a moment of pure excitement. The exposure along the ridge is breathtaking, and while not fully bolted, there are plenty of protection points.
Et la Mer Profonde et Bleue (6a+) – 200 meters, partially bolted
"Et la Mer Profonde et Bleue" is a fantastic but demanding multi-pitch climb in the Calanque de l'Eissadon, offering a more technical challenge compared to some of the area's more popular routes. The rock is less polished, requiring precise footwork and technical moves, especially on the steeper, more exposed sections. The approach features a thrilling 30-meter rappel through a large arch, followed by a horizontal pitch that leads to the main pillar.
© Amanda Vestergaard
Located along the sunny Côte D'Azur, the ideal seasons for climbing in the Calanques are Spring (April to June) and Autumn (September to November). During these months, the weather is mild and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 15°C to 25°C, offering perfect conditions for outdoor activities. This is in contrast to the region's often scorching hot Summer temperatures, which often soar above 30°C, making climbing uncomfortable and potentially dangerous due to the heat. During this time, certain regions of the park may be shut off due to fire risk. Moreover, summer is the busiest time for tourists, meaning the area can be crowded, and accommodation may be harder to find.
Ultimately, spring and fall provide the most favorable conditions for a memorable and enjoyable climbing experience. Spring brings vibrant wildflowers and lush greenery to the region, while autumn offers crisp air, warm sea temperatures and fewer tourists. Although the Calanques also have the potential to offer great climbing throughout the Winter season, shorter daylight hours may limit climbing on some of the region's classic long multi pitch routes, and many of the region's amenities and campsites shut from November through to March.
While the Calanques' proximity to Marseille means it is often busy with tourists, it also makes this climbing destination the perfect place to go to without a car. As access by motorised vehicles within the park is highly restricted, especially in the Summer months, having a car is not necessarily beneficial when it comes to accessing the coastal climbing sectors. For those who, like myself, are trying to limit their carbon footprint, it should also be said that this is a destination which does not require air travel from the UK: with help of the Eurostar, you can get to Marseille from London in just 7 hours, with only a single change of trains in Paris.
From Marseille, the easiest and most affordable way to travel to the Calanques is by bus. Buses run fairly regularly, but schedules can be infrequent on weekends and crowded in peak season, so checking timetables in advance is essential. Bus B1 to Luminy offers the most convenient access, with a shorter hike to Sugiton and connections to other climbing spots. In comparison, Bus 23 to Sormiou and Bus 22 to Morgiou both require a steep hike after drop-off, with Morgiou's approach being longer and more rugged. For En-Vau, take Bus M8 to Cassis, followed by a long but scenic hike via Port-Miou.
For those looking to cut down time on long walk-ins, there is also the option to rent bikes. Cycling to climbing areas is a great way of avoiding parking issues and road closures, especially in the summertime when access is more restricted. The best approach is via Luminy, where a rideable dirt track leads toward Sugiton and Morgiou, cutting down approach hikes significantly.
Finding the right accommodation for a climbing trip to the Calanques depends on which sector you plan to focus on, and you may even want to move around to make the most of the different sectors. In terms of style, you have a few different options:
Camping
Wild camping is strictly prohibited in the Calanques National Park, and rangers actively enforce this rule due to fire risks. Even if you are one to try your luck bivvying, the lack of drinkable water within the park makes this option highly impractical. The best legal option for staying in your tent is Camping Les Cigales, located in Cassis. This provides a reasonable base for climbing in En-Vau and Cap Canaille, but does require either a long walk through the town, or timing your approach with the local bus service. While this campsite offer great amenities, it should be noted that its target audience appears to be campervans, and that tents can be hard to pitch on their gravel plots.
Auberge de Jeunesse de Cassis
The Auberge de Jeunesse de Cassis is one of the few hostel-style accommodations near the Calanques, making it a popular choice for climbers looking for an affordable and social place to stay. Nestled in the hills above Cassis, the auberge offers stunning views over the town and the Mediterranean, with easy access to the Calanques National Park, particularly for those climbing in En-Vau, Devenson, and Cap Canaille. The hostel has dormitory-style rooms, basic but functional facilities, and a communal kitchen, making it a budget-friendly option compared to hotels and guesthouses in Cassis. It is a great place to meet fellow climbers, hikers, and outdoor enthusiasts, and the terrace overlooking the sea is a perfect spot to relax in the evening. However, it's worth noting that the auberge is fairly remote—it's about a 30-minute walk from the center of Cassis. While some food staples are available to purchase on site, it is strongly recommended that you buy most of your supplies in Cassis before making the long uphill walk to the Auberge.
AirBnBs and Guesthouses
Because this region is a popular holiday destination, Airbnbs and guesthouses in Marseille, Cassis, or nearby villages offer an excellent alternative to hostels or camping. The best choice depends on which climbing areas you're focusing on, as well as whether you have a car or plan to rely on public transport. This style of accommodation often offers breakfast, and local advice on sites you wish to visit. The most popular area for climbers to stay is within Mazargues & Bonneveine, which gives easy access to Sugiton and beyond. This is one of the best places to stay if you want to be near Luminy, as Bus B1 from here takes you straight to the park gate, followed by a short walk to the trails.
Beaches, Kayaking, and Snorkeling
The Calanques are just as impressive from the water as they are from the rock. The sheltered coves of Sormiou, En-Vau, and Port-Pin offer some of the most beautiful beaches in the region, with turquoise water perfect for swimming and snorkeling. The limestone walls rise steeply from the sea, creating a dramatic backdrop while you float in the shallows. For a more active day, kayaking along the coast allows you to explore hidden caves and remote inlets, paddling beneath the towering cliffs that you may have climbed the day before.
Hiking
The hiking trails through the Calanques provide an excellent way to take in the landscape at a slower pace. Walking these paths, you'll pass through scrubland scented with thyme and rosemary, listening to cicadas and the wind through the pines. Trails vary from gentle coastal walks to steeper ascents leading to panoramic viewpoints. The hike to Cap Gros rewards with stunning views over Morgiou, while the Belvédère de Sugiton offers one of the best perspectives of the park, where limestone ridges drop sharply into the blue Mediterranean.
Exploring Marseille
For a change of scenery, spending a rest day in Marseille is a chance to experience the region's rich multiculturalism. The Old Port is the heart of the city, where fishing boats bob alongside bustling cafés. A short walk leads into Le Panier, a maze of narrow streets, colorful facades, and hidden squares, and climbing the steps to Notre-Dame de la Garde, Marseille's highest point, provides a sweeping view over the city and sea.
Although UKC forums offer little information on the Calanques, the few comments available frequently mention theft and car break-ins. However, don't let this discourage you—while opportunistic theft does occur, particularly in remote parking areas, simple precautions can minimize the risk. Avoid leaving valuables in your car, park in well-trafficked locations, and stay mindful of your belongings in busy areas. On the trails, wild boars occasionally roam the more forested and secluded parts of the park. They are typically shy and non-aggressive, but if startled or drawn to food, they may act defensively. Encounters are rare, but it's always best to keep your distance. With basic awareness, climbers can enjoy the Calanques safely and without worry.
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Comments
Just to add, Luminy University is easily accessed by bus so is an option for the car free traveller, and it's an easy train down, you can get the Eurostar to Lille then a direct Lille Marseille train.
Also, if staying in Marseille, don't miss out on a trip to the Chateau d'If to see where the Count of Monte Cristo was held.
(We had a fab summer holiday to Marseille, exploring the Calanques and Marseille itself. No climbing this time but keen to go back!)
Have fond memories of my visit with Kevin Stephens of this parish, back in the day. At the time the only guide available was in french, and our grasp of technical french climbing terms was not as good as it needed to be. We spotted what we thought was a multipitch sport climb, which required a long complex approach with a couple of abseils. 50 foot up the first pitch, no gear and no sign of any bolts, the meaning of the term "coinceurs obligatoire" began to slowly dawn on me. Getting back out was "interesting".
I climbed there back in the 70's. It's a fantastic place but what I remember most about it were all the nudists on the beach and the numerous car break-ins.
Came to say exactly this. I have become an insufferable advocate of the St Pancras -> Marseille option since we went on a family holiday last year. Sub 7 hours from central London and no hassle with budget airline baggage limits when packing your climbing gear.
I can't think you'd need a car to climb. The city's mass-transit is very good and a week's unlimited travel on buses, trams, trains, the underground, and ferries cost us £13 last year. Loads of great-looking crags accessible within an easy and pleasant walk from Luminy University.
I remember it well Paul, especially our Houdiniesque escape. Remember this shot of one of the more normal climbs?