The wonderful limestone valley of Saint Léger is home to hundreds of quality sport routes. Many of the routes are in the F7-8 grade range, but there are a smattering of worthwhile easier routes too. However to make the most of a multi-day trip at this venue, being able to operate in the mid F7 grades is probably best. For teams climbing at F6a-c other venues in this region are better - Orpierre for example.
© Jack Geldard
The climbing is mainly on the sunny south facing side of the river, where there are many sectors, however for the hotter days there is the shady side of the valley which is home to the less extensive but still good Face Nord, which stays out of the sun all day.
The climbing style is varied on pockets, crimps and tufas, with a mixture of short and long routes, mainly overhanging, sometimes extremely so.
The approach is short and flat; a pleasant stroll up the valley by the side of the river. The base of the crag is generally flat and friendly and the valley has no road, making it quiet and tranquil.
Saint Léger is in many ways a classic example of French sport climbing. Amazing rock, well bolted routes, beautiful scenery, excellent camping and restaurants nearby, and usually perfect weather. Did I mention the wine?
© Stephen Horne
© Stephen Horne
Logistics
When to Go
The prime time is spring and autumn. However in summer it is possible to climb on the shady North Face and in winter the south facing crags do get a lot of sun, so if you get good weather you could be lucky.
How to Get There
The closest airports that are served by budget airlines are Grenoble (2.5 hours from the crag) and Nimes (1.5 hours from the crag). A car is fairly essential for this crag as it is not close to a village and access on foot or by public transport would be difficult.
Accommodation Advertise here
No Premier Listings found in this area
Campsites abound in this area, and can be found around the nearby towns of Vaison-la-Romanie or Mollans-sur-Ouveze .The village of Buis les Baronnies is 15km away and is a popular spot. NOTE: Van camping is not tolerated at the parking for the crag.
There is a small gite a few km from the crag, halfway down the small approach lane, but the closest accommodation to the crag itself is situated at the crag parking.
Food
There are plenty of restaurants in the surrounding villages.
Supplies
Vaison and Buis les Baronnies are your best bet for a bigger shop. with a variety of shops, bakeries, etc. The smaller villages nearer to the crag often have bakeries and small local stores.
Outdoor Shops Advertise here
No Premier Listings found in this area
Other Activities
Fantastic wine, amazing scenery and top class road cycling.
© Alan James
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Jack Geldard
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- REVIEW: Evolv Shaman 2016 18 Mar, 2016
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- DESTINATION GUIDE: 10 Routes to Climb in Chamonix in Winter 20 Jan, 2016
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