While the bustle of the busy town of Hebden Bridge rolls on, high on the moors above a quite different feel-good activity is unfolding. It's not a pilates class or an artisan coffee, but it's a welcome escape from modern life nonetheless; someone, somewhere, has snatched a couple of hours to enjoy a great session grit bouldering.
We all have to work to a deadline now and again, so it's perhaps fortuitous that the Victorians built a reservoir up here, as it means today you've got a well maintained road providing ready access to what would otherwise by high and inaccessible moorland, and a bucketload of quality grit. Hence the more accessible crags in the Widdop area are perfect for a couple of hours after work in the early spring, a crisp winter afternoon, or perhaps one of those long summer evenings where it's been too warm during the day, but you notice later on the wind has picked up, hazy cloud tempers the sun a little…it might be worth a look? You've got the kids into bed, all the washing up is done, and it's still not going to be dark until gone 9:30, so why not pop out, drive up the Widdop road with a pad, and see what takes your fancy? It'd be rude not to.
It's that unusual juxtaposition of the wild feeling of the moorland grit, and the relative domesticity of the reservoir and road, that make the Widdop area a uniquely great spot to climb at. Of the venues we're highlighting in this article, each one is quick to access, and you can be climbing only a few minutes after slamming your car door shut, yet each one has it's own distinctive character, outlook and microclimate.
By modern standards, there's nothing here at the cutting edge of bouldering in terms of raw difficulty, and you're unlikely to be rubbing shoulders with globetrotting mega-wads - which is no bad thing for keeping the place relatively unspoiled. Instead, the Widdop crags best serve the mid-grade climber operating in the, say, low 6s to mid 7s, who will find almost endless opportunities here.
Technical walls and aretes dominate, generally nothing too steep, although there are some great roof problems and a few notable exceptions. Fans of lowballs and highballs are equally well served too, and if you're no good at pebble pulling then….well, you'll soon learn those dark arts…
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Widdop
Widdop is one of the major crags in the Calderdale area for trad routes, and also sports a superb circuit based around the fantastic boulder field below the crag itself, complemented by a scattering of crag-based lines, crossover highball routes, and outlying boulders. Although we've picked out some classics here, one of Widdop's real strengths is in the depth of the mid-grade technical circuit problems, which in many ways are greater than the sum of their parts. Many are not necessarily big name headliners on their own, but roll it all together and you've got many brilliant days of gritstone bouldering ahead of you, if you skin holds up that is! Classic stuff.
The hillside which Widdop is on faces north, so in general the crag itself, and the north facing sides of the boulders, are prone to getting quite green during winter. So if visiting in the cooler months you will probably want to leave a day or two after wet weather to give the place a proper chance to dry out. Like many grit crags the best seasons are spring and autumn when things are quick to dry but not yet too warm to compromise conditions.
Scout
You might say Scout has, for many years, lived in the shadow of it's more famous neighbour, But while Widdop is sometimes dark, damp and shaded in winter, Scout enjoys a sunny aspect. With clean fast-drying rock, good lines, interesting features with a friendly feel about the place, it's ideal for a cool sunny winter's day or a quick after-work session once the daylight hours are longer - what's not to like?
The crag would probably be busier and better known if it was home to any really hard modern classics to put it on the map. While the trickier numbers like Stone Hand Traverse and its companions will give most of us enough to
contend with, Scout's real strength is in its varied circuit in the mid grades, where the key is to turn up, explore and climb what you find - the far end of the crag is actually a decent walk from the car if you make it all the way, and solitude is guaranteed.
Scout Hut
The main attractions of Scout Hut (not to be confused with the nearby Scout 'not hut' crag) for most first-time visitors are the excellent highball problems, formerly living under the guise of trad-graded solos. These are perhaps best enjoyed today above a stack of pads to make the most of the decent landings. Visiting with a small team with this in mind is great fun, all egging each other on and up, and if you can be tempted to stick around and explore further the full circuit is worth checking out if you're operating in the 5s, 6s and low 7s.
There's also quite a few traverses to keep local enthusiasts returning. The crag is something of a sun trap and enjoys a slightly more sheltered position compared to the moorland crags hereabouts, and hence can duck the worst of the weather. As such it's a good option on days where it's too grim up at Widdop.
Mytholm
Offering a total contrast to the exposed moorland crags, Mytholm offers a good handful of steep lines, sheltered from the prevailing winds, but still only a short walk from the car, although it's a classic example of a venue where hopes are not high upon parking up next to a tottering quarry full of chossy looking rock. But stick with it, avoid any days with lingering dampness in the air, and you will be rewarded. The unlikely classic Tony's Wall is not to be missed, and for those of you who fancy themselves as sloper masters, pick a cold day and pounce upon the rarely (if ever) repeated Titus Gaukroger.
Guidebook
Widdop, Scout, Scout Hut and Mytholm's bouldering is covered in the Rockfax Digital app. The most recent print guide is the YMC's Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 2 from 2014 and Northern Rock from 2022, both of which cover the trad climbing, but also have extensive bouldering content.
Other Areas
For those willing to put in a little more legwork some fantastic and secluded moorland bouldering is available nearby in the form of Dovestones (some of which is technically in Lancashire, but don't hold that against it) and the sound compact solid grit of Clattering Stones, alongside the more well-known Gorple crags perched up on the moor above Widdop; Gorple Stones, Upper Gorple, and Dicken Rocks / Lower Gorple. The latter's claim to fame being the hard modern classic Chabal (f8A+), but it's a lovely spot to spend some time regardless of your grade.
Of a totally different flavour to the moorland crags, back down towards Hebden Bridge is Heptonstall Quarry, mostly featuring trad, but also home to some bouldering along its base, for local fans of finger-testing esoterica.
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