I have seen this before. I think this is the secret on routes. Fast and faster!! I have tried it in my climbing and I believe it made a difference! Especially indoors where all the holds are pretty much the same./ you know what to expect. Climb super fast. That's the secret:)

It's an great piece of footage. You should put up the women's one as well. They're climbing the men's final route with 2 or 3 extra holds to reduce the reachiness of some of the moves. It's brilliant watching Johanna Ernst climbing higher than all of the men except Ondra, only falling at the long move at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/user/therealudini#p/u/1/1QzEnn-2qRY Johanna with Patxi and Manuel

Very good but the route seems easier for him than for the other two climbers shown.