Shauna Coxsey - World Cups, Broken Legs.... Interview

© Dan Knight

With just one round of the Bouldering World Cup to go, British climber Shauna Coxsey was sat in second place. Fit and in the form of her life, the young climber was excited to compete in Munich and fight for her position on the podium.

Akio Noguchi, Anna Stoer and Shauna Coxsey on the podium in Munich, taking the titles for the overall world cup  © Heiko Wilhelm
Akio Noguchi, Anna Stoer and Shauna Coxsey on the podium in Munich, taking the titles for the overall world cup
© Heiko Wilhelm

Unfortunately Shauna broke her leg bouldering a few weeks before the final round, meaning that she could not compete, yet despite not entering the final event, the points she had accrued from earlier rounds were still enough for her to come in third place overall.

Shauna was in Munich to watch the competition and on her return to the UK we spoke to her about the competition, about her broken leg, and about her planned return to climbing.

Here's what she had to say:

Shauna Coxsey training on the finger board with a broken leg
© Dan Knight
Jack: Hey Shauna, so sorry to hear about the leg. Must have been gutting.

Shauna: Yeah, rubbish eh!

Jack: Okay - the big question - if you hadn't broken your leg, were you were in with a chance of winning the World Cup?

Shauna: Anna Stöhr had already secured her overall win. But I was excited about trying to maintain my second place.

Jack: So, how is the leg healing? And how have you been dealing with the injury, at such an inopportune time?

Shauna: It's taking longer than expected which is annoying.

It has been pretty hard at times and motivation hasn't always been easy to find but I have some new goals and aims for the end of the year. So I am now really psyched to train and make the most of the time I have to take out.

Jack: You've just been out to watch the World Cup in Munich, can you give us a run down on the competition, the UK team, and also how it was for you, not being able to compete?

Shauna: It was a really amazing event as always with a huge crowd! The UK Team did amazingly well and we had 5 members in semi finals. Ned Feehally and Adam Watson both made it and it was Adam's first World Bouldering Cup, he climbed really well and finished in 11th overall. Stew Watson made it all the way to finals and came so close to making the podium but greased off the last boulder and finished 5th. The girls performed really well too. Mina topped all of the qualifiers and went though to semis along with Katy Whittaker. I found it hard to be at the competition and it was very frustrating at times but it was so good to see the Brits crushing!

Jack: But I've seen that you are still training, despite the leg. Campus training and similar. What exactly have you been up to?

Shauna: I am determined to come back stronger and fitter than I was before. For the first time ever I am working with a coach which has been unbelievably useful.

Finding the motivation has not been easy and I have realised a lot about where my own personal motivation comes from. I now have new goals and plans for the rest of the year so having something to be psyched for really helps. I was also really scared of coming back to climbing and being really weak, I guess that fear is a good motivation too.

I know that I wont be able to boulder for quite a while so I am going to see what I can do on a rope.

I will still be training to make sure I am fit to train for the next bouldering season though.

Jack: And you mentioned that your forced time off has given you more time to concentrate on the Women's climbing symposium, can you explain a bit more about that? What is it?

Shauna: The Women's Climbing Symposium is an event that aims to connect, inspire and develop women's climbing through collective climbing experiences, the latest research and the best coaching.

It is taking place at The Climbing Hangar in Liverpool on Saturday 3rd of November. I am really excited about this year, it's going to be even bigger and better than last year!

Jack: And how are you involved in that?

Shauna: I co-organise the event and I will also be speaking and coaching on the day. It's going to be an amazing day. Tickets will be available soon.

Jack: Well good luck with both the recovery and the symposium. Thanks again Shauna.

Overall 1st place in the 2016 and 2017 IFSC Bouldering World Cup. Appointed MBE in 2016. Britain's first Sport Climbing athlete in Tokyo 2020.

Shauna's Athlete Page 70 posts 11 videos

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