UKC

Hi all,

can anyone recommend bouldering around Pitlochry?

I have the Scotland bouldering guidebook, which features Dunkeld (Cave crag) and Weem as  destinations close by. I wondered whether there is anything else - possibly even closer to Pitlochry.

Also, can anyone tell me whether Weem and Dunkeld are good family venues?

Thanks.

F

The boulder wall at Weem is a nice family friendly spot, though being static in the woods at this time of year, the midge might come for you. I reckon Dunkeld isn’t likely to provide what you are after. Glen Lednock has a good reputation for being a good bouldering venue but that’s about 1 hour away... 

Thanks! Glen Lednock looks very nice and it may be sufficiently close.

Is the sport climbing OK at Dunkeld? 
 

Finally, the guidebook mentions a Tully Stone very close to Piltochry, but I could not find anything online. Any idea what this is?

thanks again,

F

Tully Stone is 15 mins south of Pitlochery at Creag na-h Eighe. It has a bunch of problems listed on here.

Thanks! Found it!

Would you recommend it? Is it also a family venue (I have two toddlers)?

Thanks

The sport climbing at Dunkeld is very limited but very good at F7b to F8a.

Upper Cave has perhaps two of the best sport climbs in Scotland but little more than that, as most of the other climbs are variations on these two routes.  Myopic Buttress also has worthwhile routes but perhaps not of the same super high quality of the Upper Cave variants.

The Tully Stane is a bit rubbish for grown ups, but OK for toddlers, and a nice spot on a sunny day. There's some slightly better bouldering on the crag above it, but it's a bit less toddler-friendly up there.

I'd give Dunkeld/Cave Crag a miss for bouldering with toddlers. Weem is OK and quite good for children....except for the likely midges. 

Do not be tempted by Faskaly Wood, however convenient it may be for Pitlochry, because it is pathetically awful.

Glen Lednock Boulders is the nearest decent bouldering venue, but as well as the drive you'll need to walk for half an hour. For a not dissimilar amount of time invested you could go north to  Ruthven Boulder which is both toddler friendly and excellent. There are plenty other options in the same area.

Thanks to all for the very informative responses.

Just a couple more questions, if you don't mind.

I was wondering whether the problems Strongbow and Gale Force (at Laggan) and Electric Feel (at Dunkeld) are in themselves worth a trip to the respective crags and whether they are easy to find.

Thanks again,

F

I’ve taken our kids to Electric Feel and the Gael Force boulders before. They are both brilliant stand alone problems and worth seeking out.

Gael Force probably better for kids as  the ground around the boulder is more flat. There is also a few other problems on wee blocs nearby that are good. Probably around 20-40 min walk in depending on if you carry kiddos or let them walk. There’s a bull in the field on the way there, the farmer said the bull shouldn’t be bothered by people but we skirted the edge to be on the safe side.

Electric Feel is a classic problem but can be hard to find. I wouldn’t want to be trudging round all the over grown veg at this time of year trying to find it with kids in tow. A better idea might be to take kids to Upper Cave or visit the fun caves in the area and take turns going down to Electric. I’ve taken the kids there before but climbing as a three with kids under pretty close supervision (the ground is uneven with really steep ground close by). Worth checking for ticks after a visit here at this time of year.

If you don’t mind a reasonably high faff to climbing ratio both of the above are worth while. If you want more climbing, less faff, I’d drive the extra distance to Ruthven which is ideal for kids. Many problems, short walk in, totally flat area.

I'd agree with CMcBain. Electric Feel is hard to find (and hard to climb - too hard for me it transpired), and there's dangerous terrain about. Strongbow is great, and child-friendly in the immediate vicinity, but my memory (from a few years ago) is that getting to the boulders is a bit tough and, especially now that the bracken is tall, perhaps not very toddler-friendly. Inexplicably I’ve not actually been to the Gale Force boulder, so can’t comment on that.

Hope you get some decent weather. Next time come earlier and go further north and west!

Thanks CMcBain and Wicamoi!

Very helpful.

Unfortunately, I did not have any flexibility on the choice of the period...

We'll do our best with the conditions we have and I am sure we'll have fun!

Best,

F

The access to Laggan bouldering has changed, there is now a house and fence where the approach used to start, I believe.

Last I heard a new approach was being negotiated.Thats all I know,sorry.

Ruthven Ruthven Boulder is excellent, flat ground all around the block, easy approach. Good birdwatching around the loch where you park.Pray for a stiff breeze.

Just along the road is Brin, Brin Rock not really a summer venue being in woods but if you poke around there might be something.Very sheltered and insecty. There are other venues close by like Rooftown Rooftown/Ruadha nan Eallachanand Kelpie  Kelpie Boulders but not really toddler friendly.

Glen Lednock Boulders 30 mins up a tarmac road, lots of boulders, many lowball.Quite dirty these days, take a brush. Get there early, parking gets busy due to nearby Munro. HTH

I stopped by last year and there's a track and a gate opposite the village hall that give access to the fields. It's an easy walk across the fields from there. 

Cheers Alex, I'll remember that.

To the OP I meantBrin boulders, not the crag.

Thanks Sherlock and Alex the Alex.

Just to clarify, are you discussing the access to the Gale Force boulder or to the Strongbow boulder (or both)? On the map they seem to be in different places.

F

Just to clarify on this one, Only Ruthven is worthwhile if your travelling up from Pitlochry but might be midge.

Rooftown and Kelpie are too far a walk for kids, Brin, Duntelchaig and Dunlichity are always midge at this time of year. 

Barry valley might work but is limited for kids. 

To be honest if your willing to to drive to Ruthven it might be just as good to try Cummingston or Primrose bay on the Moray coast, No midge/good climbing and bouldering/the sea to swim in/kid friendly.......just a thought

Good luck

Hi again

Sherlock and Alex are talking about access for Strongbow, as you say the Gale Force boulder is on a totally disconnected site (though nearby). Gaz Marshall made a topo for both sites about 10 years ago - if you can't find it online I'm pretty sure I've got a copy somewhere which I could send you. PM me if you want it.

Thanks!

Thanks. I had a look but could not find it.

try this : https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/weem_crags-394

Ah, of course you're right about that , Rob!

Couple of lockdowns have scrambled my brains. That's why I spend my summers abroad or (thanks to Covid) North Wales.😊

I also have a copy of Gaz's topo, if you haven't already been hooked up with it then PM me.

Gale Force sector is probably better with wee ones, loads of ferns in the strongbow area and can be quite tick-y at times.

He's got it.🙂

No probs Nigel