UKC

What are the 10 best boulder problems (f6c-f7a) in North Wales? These can be on the coast or in Snowdonia. I haven’t bouldered in North Wales yet and I’m going on a trip so I thought this would be a good starting point. The lists seem alittle long so a best of the best would be interesting.

Thanks for your suggestions

Jim

You’re in for a treat, North Wales is beautiful. Obviously any list is going to be totally subjective but my tuppence worth for classic problems/ areas to visit at that grade would be:

Killer Weed/ Northern Soul, The Meadow, Llanberis Pass V5

Toe Dragon/  Dirty Slapper v5/6 Sheep Pen, Ogwen

Central Wall sit start/ Short Cut traverse, v6 Braichmelyn

Minecraft wall/ Tempest, v5/6, Tanygrisiau

Elephantitus, V6

Oh yeah, v5  Caseg Fraith, Ogwen

Klem’s Arête 6c and Dog Shooter 6c *** Sheep Pen Boulders Ogwen

Lordy Lordy 6c *** Llanberis Pass, The Meadow,

actually, just park at the Cromlech Boulders, cross over to the CC hut, and head up to Cyrn Las past The Satellites, Utopia, Pieshop and into the Meadow. Brilliant bouldering in a fantastic mountain setting. After that come down and trash your fingers at  Cromlech Roadside.

Everything you pass on the way up is worth doing, so I see your problem. The three stars really are three stars. For me, the Meadow along with the Sheep Pen are the most wonderful places to climb.

paul

Thanks Tom.

Do you know about the coast; we are staying near to Abersoch. But your suggestions look good.

Jim

Thanks for the suggestions. Your ideas look worth seeking out.

Jim

You’re laughing then, just head for Porth ysgo, about 30 mins down the road. Often gets great weather when the mountains are in rain. Lovely spot. I’ve got the old guide and some stuff has changed due to shifting beach/ pebble level but i’m happy to photo and email the relevant pages if you’re interested. You’ve also got moel y gest quarry up by porthmadog, although i’ve never actually been up there.   Edit to say that you’ll need a fair few mats for ysgo due to the rocky landings 3/4 minimum to feel safe in my opinion 

You could come up with a top ten just at porth ysgo. It's an awesome venue that's far away from the crowds and in a fantastic setting. Staying on the Lleyn means I'd be heading there most days. Often dry when the pass isn't too

The Pinch (V7)

Popcorn Party (V6)

Cromlech Roof Crack (f7A+)

The Edge Problem (f6C+)

King of Drunks (V6)

Harvey Oswald (V7) (more like 7A)

Arse Soul (f7A)

Deep Throat Donut (f6C+) (underrated IMO)

Bulling 747 (V6)

Any of the traverses on the Homage boulder at clogwyn y bustach are underrated gems too.

Thanks Tom,

We have plenty of mats. So we should be fine. One of our party is buying the guide but thanks for the offer of emailing the pages.

Jim

Thanks Mr Morris for the advice. I’ll have a look.

Jim

This plus Caseg Groove and Kingdom of Rain is probably a solid list of things you want to do here! 

Try teenage rampage f7a and phils roof full version f6c if passing tremadog. Awesome tremadog rock and both climb attractive features.