UKC

Off for a one off day trip to Dartmoor whilst on holiday near Plymouth. What’s a good recommendation for a visit? 
 

Ease of access from the main roads when going between exeter and Plymouth and good quality days worth of bouldering
 

Looking forward to trying the granite 

The Widdecombe area is the obvious choice. Hound Tor would be my go-to. There's a good selection of quality problems and routes you can highball, plus it's a little less busy than Bonehill. That said, Bonehill is fantastic especially for harder stuff and the setting is amazing on a nice day. There are classic problems at both.

Bonehill Bonehill Rocksis hard to beat for easy access and number of problems. If you don’t mind a ten minute walk, Smallacombe  Smallacombe Rocks is a good alternative.

I just came back from a couple of days on the moor and it was beautiful. Four months of lockdown is not the best way of preparing your skin for Dartmoor granite, though.

I'd agree with both of the above; if you've never been to the area then Hound Tor and Bonehill are hard to beat. Whilst both can get busy, the former tends to be far busier with tourists and the latter, whilst it does indeed attract a good number of climbers, is quite extensive - hence easy to a quiet corner in/amongst the complex jumble of boulders.

Good luck (and have fun)!

I'll second what Hakan says about the granite. It can bite back!

I'd say the Bonehill area fits your requirements.

http://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/index.shtml is a great resource. An oldie but a goodie!

Have fun. The moor is a very special place. 

https://javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering

There’s some good advice in the replies already. If you want some bouldering closer to Plymouth have a look at the SW side of the moor as well. Lots to go at with trip from Burrator with Coombeshead Tor and Cuckoo Rock being highlights.

Thanks everyone. Is the quartz really as sharp as I’ve been warned!

It’s even sharper 😱

In some cases, yes.

The key to preserving skin is being precise and controlled with hand movements. Don't go wildly slapping for stuff, as you'll quickly regret it!

I’ll be going for old man static style then. Tortoise climbing!

if youre closer to the Plymouth side of the moor then check out  Cuckoo Rock and Combeshead Tor. its full of classics from f4 to f7a which are perhaps even better than anything at bonehill or hound tor . It's a little underrated which might be due to the 25min walk in, but as a positive you will often have the place to your self. 

The nearby Down Tor is also great for problems up to f6C.

I recommend carefully placing each finger so it nestles between the quartz crystals.

Wildly slapping can cut a finger in one go ...

For all grades I’d recommend starting at Bonehill then move onto Hound Tor before visiting Saddle Tor to finish (even if you have no skin left (and you won’t)).

You could choose a UKC Ticklist that suits your grade and you can print out a Topo from the Javu Uk website (free, better than the guides and normally current).

I think Cuckoo Rock is too big a drive and walk in. 

Even if your in Plymouth it’s probably the same time driving to Cuckoo Rock as it is to Bonehill (hard to get to) and you can park right next to Bonehill (30 second walk in). The Cuckoo Rock walk in is 30 minutes whereas  Hound Tor has a 5 minute walk in and the best Burger bar on Dartmoor/the World  - “The Hound of the Basketmeals”!!!

You won’t get any dodgy Plymouth grading system (or Pro Sandbaggers) and you can crack the Hidden Traverse at Saddle Tor before smashing up an ice cream from Hay Tor car park - all on your way home! 

Also if you’re coming in August (and you’ve checked the bird ban is off) stay one more day!!! You’d be NUTS to leave without trying the Rainbow Traverse DWS at Berryhead (just watch out for the Torquay Crew)!!! In fact it’s too hot to boulder - go do Rainbow Traverse!!!

While the topos om Javu are good (and free to download) I think the CC Dartmoor guide is better.

Yep I’ve had the guide. Great phots and detail but for a day trip I’d just go for a Printed topo from Javu. I think they are better in terms of finding where the climbs are - less is more and they are clearer.

Hold on this is threadcreep! We will be talking blackholes next!!! 
 
Javu is better though, and it’s free. 

I really like the climber's club dartmoor guide, worth a look. Bonehill and hounds tor great recommendations and take the opportunity to visit the rugglestone inn in widdecombe in the moor too!

Cuckoo and Combeshead all the way! Underrated because 25min approach but that’s nothing, just got to get up and started early. Fantastic low to mid-grade climbing with generally good landings if you’re going solo. Bonehill is good but a bit overrated for the low/mid end stuff IMO, hyped because access is so easy. Worth discovering the less popular places if you have the time. 

Went to Bonehill on Saturday and really enjoyed the climbing. The granite is a different experience, thanks for the advice!

did a couple of hours climbing a shit ton of easy to get the feel for it before trying anything harder. You weren’t kidding about needing slow delicate movement and really placing fingers carefully before pulling. The big hold isnt always the best hold there. And you need careful feet! Can’t wait to visit the other spots on my next visit

Does anyone know how quick drying the rock is? Meant to be going today but weather is looking meh. Was hoping to check out bonehill. 

If it's not raining and there's some wind, then should dry very fast on the exposed bits.

Thanks that's what I was hoping to hear! 

Really beautiful last night at Hound Tor and a nice breeze to keep us cool. Pity about the abrasive nature of the rock. Hands are a bit of a mess!

Wow the rock is good but its like climbing razor blades. Chunks of skin randomly go missing. I'm surprised at how difficult it was, I went from feeling good on 6a up to 6c in the peaks to barely feeling good on f5+s at bonehill! 

Hidden Traverse Low at Saddle Tor and Spiderland in Bovey Woods (another Trav) both V7ish stay relatively dry in the rain. 

Hard Candy V5 at Bell Tor (nr Bonehill) stays dry too if you get caught out. 

if your hands are in bits you could go DWS at London Bridge at Coastguard Cliffs too. Sea cliffs tend to dry out quick in the sun. 

Have a good time anyway. 

That's a really common feeling on the granite. It's partly getting the skin used to the rock so that holds aren't so painful.

Of course there are a lot of sandbagging accusations as well....