UKC

Had a lovely morning session out at Newstones & Baldstones last weekend. It was great to get out and have some fun on some easy problems. I was also enjoying the social side of climbing when I bumped into some guys and ending up climbing with them for the rest of the session. 

I recently started making some 'vlogs' (apologies, I hate that term) and putting them onto YouTube. The link below shows off some of the problems I got up (and a few of the ones I didn't). There is a bit of me chatting away but you can always skip forward to the climbing at around the 1:53 mark. 

This video really isn't about hard climbing, the toughest problem was a V3, but does show off how accessible and fun bouldering can be.

I hope anyone that watches enjoys. I hope everyone has a good weekend. 

youtube.com/watch?v=o3PqySWy05I&

Newstones and Baldstones

Nice cheery vid. For the future you need to get into the habit of cleaning your shoes before every attempt on a problem, where you have been off the mat.

Newstones is a classic place for showing the damage that can be done from bouldering in bad conditions and/or due to lazy footwork/cleaning.  

Also you might want to be careful about calling 'easier' bouldering 'easy' (not the same thing).

Thank you, good advice. I always try and make sure to wipe off my shoes before beginning any climb (trad, sport or bouldering). For the purpose of editing I cut these bits out. You certainly are not wrong about signs of erosion & damage at Newstones. 

Fair point about the easy/easier thing. I certainly didn't find all of these problems personally easy, haha. 

I've always liked it there as alit if the problems have really safe landings are aren't to high, yet if you want a highball the option is there. There's something for everyone.

Plus the fact it's in a really nice area and accessible. 

Nice little vid, I enjoyed an afternoon there myself last week. Bit confused though, ‘Nutmeg’ V0 4c is part of the green circuit but the route isn’t shown on the app, also is the grade/route even correct? Pull up the flakes and move right the book says but I can’t see a route to the top at 4c on this and I nailed a couple of 5c’s last week? 

We have the Nutmeg highball at VS/V0 5a on our Offwidth website. The line in the most recent BMC Roaches guide is too far left at the start (we thought 5b by that line). We thought it had some technical trickery to overcome a big reach.

As ever you need a browser that still supports Flash to still view this (we use Puffin).

https://offwidth.uptosummit.com/newstones_area.html

Thanks Offwidth, a mine of knowledge as ever! I’ll take another look