UKC

Some friends asked me to find them some good crack bouldering in the peak, they have never climbed any outdoor cracks. 

As much as I appreciate a good laugh I don't think Melvyn Bragg is the best introduction. I've done a fair bit at Ramshaw, but was looking for other suggestions. 

Thanks

There’s a couple of other crack problems at the opposite end of Ramshaw. Otherwise, what sort of grades? What sort of cracks?

From memory the easier problems at Ramshaw tended to be more squirming than jamming but it is definitely educational

They both climb about v4 indoors, so I think VB-V2 or am I being optimistic?

I suggested things like 20ft crack and got some nervous noises about that sounding high.

Take a few pads and have a play on dog leg crack at curbar.

20 foot crack is rubbish for jamming practice anyway if you have fat hands like me. Dog Leg Crack at Curbar is much better!

The slab at the Roaches Lower Tier has some jams on the central crackline, probably achievable without but a good place to Iearn with only limited steepness. 

The Real 20-foot Crack (VS 4c) andEasy Jamming (HVD 4a) are away from the main part of Stanage. They are both routes, but you could always go up and down a bit for some practice. Easy jamming is particularly friendly.

I think there are other offerings thereabouts too, probably shorter. Surprisingly, Zippatrocity (f7B+), just round the corner has some easy horizontal bits that are at ground level. You could make up done challenges. The rock is very rough, however. 

That's why it's a good one to learn on. All sizes 

Mine don't fit in so I wind up just reaching between the breaks!

I would argue that particular buttress has to be one of the least inspiring documented buttresses in the Peak (I don't like busy crags). 

Good suggestions. In the same area there is also:

Sleazy Jamming (S 4b)

The Shaft (f6C)

For jamming beginners learn to lap Dog Leg Crack at Curbar above mats, then move onto

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/curbar_edge-21/little_innominate-1...

Jamming test number 1 in "On Peak Rock" was Heather Wall at Froggatt.  Not because you have to jam, but precisely because you don't - because there's one particularly perfect hand jam on the route, and if you choose not to use it jamming just isn't for you.

I think to a certain extent the same applies to easier jamming generally.  It's everywhere on the grit, but in the case of the easier problems it's also easy to avoid the jams and do something else instead and to the non-jammer you can be looking right at the jams and still not see them.  The trick is to eschew the other holds and make yourself use the jams until you learn to love them.

Dog Leg crack is a particularly good one.  The Real 20 Foot Crack on Stanage is indeed much nicer than the Burbage 20 Foot Crack (which is grim).  But really, if you look I think you can find cracks to boulder out anywhere there is grit bouldering, certainly anywhere the bouldering is on the crag itself rather than on actual detached boulders anyway.

Edit to add:
Following on from the other Curbar suggestions, it might also be worth a look at The Pugilist (HS 4b) for a taste of the slightly wider stuff.  As the name suggests, there is fisticuffs.

The Rammer (f4+)

An richly-educational (by which I mean "humiliating") experience very early on in my outdoor bouldering experience.

(I spent a very long time wedged inside it making no upwards progress at all but exerting so much effort that when I eventually gave up I had to lie down for a while.)

Milk Cap (VD)

Ditto except substitute "terrifying" for "humiliating". Also I did finish it.

Slot Entry (f5)

A contrast to the others in that it's not seared into my soul. Much less jamming, but if you can commit to a jam or two and place them cleanly, it's all much easier.

Cheers, looks like Curbar could be a good idea especially as it is one of the crags I have spent much less time at. 

I played around on Zippatrocity years ago and I think a return visit on 'post-lockdown' form could be depressing but a nice problem. Maybe one to get around to finishing off when I am feeling a bit fitter!

It is ok everyone knows the Rammer is desperate. I think I made more vertical progress on Melvyn Bragg on my first attempt than I did on my first go at the Rammer. 

Basic Lakes VD chimneying 😁

Almost serious, that kind of squirmy thrutchy thing is a declining skill.

After I had managed to extricate myself up the Rammer I thought "what a great little problem", wouldn't like to meet it mid route.

Of course, the danger of putting your friends on the Rammer is that, statistically speaking, there's a chance that some of them will decide that this stuff is fun and develop an unhealthy obsession with offwidths.

It happened to me ...

I will note that it's probably a lot less terrifying if you have a) a mat that's in the right place and b) a spotter, even without c) a basic knowledge of crack climbing.

The first pitch of little nasty at ramshaw is a good little jamming crack. No other way to do it apart from jams. Your feet at near useless at the start so puts more on you been able to jam. 

Now you tell me! 

I remember you pudding The Rammer.

If you end up at Burbage mate, try Definitive 5...(?) or whatever it’s called. 5.12 is it? Not exactly easy, but I reckon you’d do that Mike. 

pudding The Rammer
 

Erm, bit cryptic of me. Anyway, though you’d found it ok.

That was my second time on the Rammer

I think I had done a few cracks before you allowed me to persuade myself Melvyn was a good idea.

The sheep at burbage (anywhere between v5 and v16 depending on how well you know the beta)

may as well try zippy's traverse at the plantation if you take this as a recommendation