UKC

Low level traverses Peak and Yorkshire grit?

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 kevin stephens 10 Jun 2020

I'm not normally a boulderer because I have a weak ankle that doesn't take kindly to jumping off from any height - I can just about cope with the beefy mats at indoor walls if I don't fall /jump too far.

However in these difficult times I really need to get out socially isolated on some low level traverses to keep some finger strength and technique going whilst not risking my ankle.

Can anyone recommend suitable venues?  Someone has already pointed out Greetland (Yorkshire Gritstone) which looks ideal

Thanks for any help

 robert-hutton 10 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

I use a low level traverses by the side of blacka moor and Hathersage Road, parking 100m below this location https//maps.app.goo.gl/us8a8UX8VQwZn2nu7

The wall is about 50m long and you never get more than 70cm off the floor it's a nice grassy area and gets the morning sun, it's about 6a/b very small sharp edges and good for footwork.

​​

 climber34neil 10 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Eastwood trav, just don't go there as it's on private land! 

Green traverse, leaning block trav on higgar tor , plenty of traverse options at apparent north, hampers hang etc

 mrphilipoldham 10 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Greetland is good!  New Mills Torrs and  Hobson Moor Quarry also have some extended low traverses which'll keep your arms healthy. 

 deacondeacon 10 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Are you in Sheffield Kevin? There's a brilliant traversing wall over the road from homebase on Chesterfield Road (the little shortcut towards The Works), but don't tell everybody 😉

My description is probably rubbish, but if you give me your number I'll pinpoint a map link over for you.

Alternatively if its just to keep your fingers going while you can't get much climbing done limestone is much better than grit. No midges and finger climbing. Get down minus ten at Stoney. 😊

 Si dH 10 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

There are lots at the churnet if you can get there although it's not grit. Virgin traverse particularly. Eastwood is fairly horizontal and you need a good few mats to pad out all the bits you could fall off.

Post edited at 22:35
 dunnyg 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Si dH:

Theres a few at almscliffe, virgin traverse, crucifix traverse, sloper patrol, the 7A going past si's arete etc.. None as good as greetland though! If you don;t want to go high at greetland, I hope you have strong fingers if you want to do the full traverse! 

In reply to all:

thanks for the suggestions everyone, some great ideas to try, particularly the limestone ones

 fuzzysheep01 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

There's a decent long traverse in the Regent Street Bay at Millstone Edge - Keyhole Traverse 1 (f6C) - which varies in grade from font 6c-7bish depending on how far you go. There's also an easier warm up traverse just left - The Metal Rash Traverse (f5). Both worth doing.

 ChrisBrooke 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

These are all short traverse problems rather than pumpy mega-traverses, but off the top of my head:

Triangle Traverse (f6A+)

Low Triangle Traverse (f6B)

Bridge Traverse (f6A+) (hardest 5 I can think of)

Middle Traverse (f6B)

The Green Traverse (f7A)

 Cake 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Spur Traverse (f7A)

I think it's harder than that. It gets harder the further you go. There is more at the plantation which will do, but Green Traverse hasn't got a great landing in places.

Hobson Moor Quarry

No walk in. Classic traverses at the left end. 

In reply to kevin stephens:

Kevin, Although it is little bit further to travel for you, there are plenty of traverses that you may remember at Pex.

Pex Hill Quarry

Chris

In reply to Christheclimber:

HaHa, yes I used to live much nearer Pex and was a frequent visitor.  I think I'll be able to get my crimp (or even sloper) workout closer to home

 Andy Farnell 11 Jun 2020
In reply to Christheclimber:

Pex is the first place I thought of, although as Kevin said he's been there a lot in the past. A good excuse to go back and see if he can float along the Hart's arete traverse again 😉

Andy F

 steveb2006 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Not gritstone but Pleasley Vale has some great just above ground level traversing. Quite strenuous and the longest one gives a good stamina workout.  Pleasley Vale

 SDM 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

A few options in/around The Peak, some of which have already been mentioned.

Grit:

You could get in the queue for the ever busy Stanage Plantation traverses/lowballs circuit: The Green Traverse 7A plus all of its variations. (It's worth having a pad for the crux; it's low but I've seen people come off it out of control), Steep Traverse 6C (lowball but awkward landing, actually about 6A), Zippy's Traverse 7B (tops out but the difficulty is all at waist height), Deliverance Traverse 7A/The Full Circuit 7B, Captain Hook 7B (lowball but needs pads) and maybe Jerry's Traverse 7C+ (if you are comfortable with the penultimate move).

Cratcliffe/Robin Hoods Stride: Jerry's Traverse 7B/Jerry's Reverse 7B+(!), Scoop Slab Traverse 4 (a nice warm up for your footwork. Keep removing footholds if it's too easy)

Baslow: Lots of options on the Walnut from 6B to 7C. Truffle Pig 7A on the edge (tops out but the difficulty is with your feet about 6 inches off the ground).

Gardom's: anything on Mark's Roof. They all top out but it's quite lowball and there's usually more matting there than at an indoor wall. Also the lowball First Roof.

Secret Garden: Secret Garden Traverse 6Bish or 6C if the ankle is up to doing the mantle at the end (it is Zippatricks 7C+ without feet)

Roaches: Greener Traverse 6B, Inertia Reel Traverse 8A+, Nadin's Traverse 7A, Black Hole Start 7A, Boozy Traverse 6C+

Not quite grit but there's plenty of options at Churnet: Virgin Wall Traverse, Niche Traverse 6B, Hob Traverse 5, Ousal Low 7A+, Jill the Traverse 6B+, Low Traverse 6B. You could add anything on the Witness Block or the Block of Thebes that are all lowball and there are many more traverses that I'm sure I've forgotten.

There's loads of options for lowball traversing on the limestone:

Rubicon: Warm-up Traverse 4, Low Break 6B+, Middle Break 6A, Top Break 5, Approach Traverse 7A and you can link all of these together to make it as pumpy as you like.

Raven Tor: Ben's Traverse 8A, Powerband 7C, Staminaband 8A, Ben's Roof 7C-8A (might have step off before the last couple of moves up THFML) and possibly Perverse Reverse 7B (lower chance of coming off out of control than on Weedkiller).

Minus Ten: Minus Wall Traverse 6B+

Rheinstor/Nudas Tartan: Lower Traverse 7A, The Scenic Route 7A and countless others if you are OK falling off a lowball roof.

The P: I think the low traverse is still a project in both directions.

Pleasley Vale: Frog Buttress Traverse 5, Monks Wall Traverse 6A, Yew Tree Traverse 7A+ (bring a pad for the crux; its low but an awkward landing if you ping off)

Blackwell Dale: Jerry's Traverse/Reverse 7A+, Midsummer's Daydream 7A/+, Midsummer Night's Dream 7B/+ (bring a brush for these last two!)

Odin's Cave: The Dark Room 8A (3-D roof climbing; lowball, but needs pads)

Anston: Anything on the lowball Bullet Roof (7A-7C+: tend to involve a mantle at shoulder height) and the problems in the roof at Woody's Rock (6B-6C and 7C-8A).

 James Oswald 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Pebble mill traverse

 afx22 11 Jun 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

There’s a few at Shipley Glen.  Glen Campus High and Low Traverses.  Leaper Traverse.  Unnamed Traverse.  Red Wall Traverse.  Longs Traverse.  And more.


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